27" Arrow!

[rpembert]

I was in my local archery shop and was getting me some arrows. I only shoot a 27" arrow. Now, my friend who runs the shop looked at me like I was crazy, "27" he said, you are 6'3"! I know you can pull at least 30." The truth is my draw length is 28". I just started to do this last week after I talked with Jerry Hill. I bring the tip of the arrow flush with the back of the bow. He said that "Uncle" Howard used to shoot only a 27" arrow because thats all you needed. Mr. Howard was a big man like me but conditioned himself to shoot that way. Now I am only talking about a "Target" arrow. He had longer arrows depending on what he was hunting. Jerry should be able to explain more.

The result of this is that I get a flatter flying arrow and I also pick up some speed as well. You cant shoot a broadheads this way but for targets it rocks!

Thanks,
Joshua

By the way, the arrows that I use are aluminum.

[MSwickard]

If it works it works.  Those shorter arrows will be stiffer also.

[tradhunter1]

A person should shoot what works for them. There is nothing wrong with emulating Howard Hill, I wish I could shoot as well as he did.

I cut my target arrows the same length as my hunting arrows so I have more consistantcy when I transition from target heads to broad heads. I had a 28.5" draw when I shot a compound and for the last 8 years that I have been shooting a long bow I have a 26" draw. Those that shoot compounds and have never tried a recurve or long bow don't understand the slight differances in form for traditional vs compounds. I know I didn't until I switched over to a long bow.

But Like I said you should use what works for you.

Good luck

[Orion]

Flatter and faster compared to what, a 26-inch draw? I'm not suggesting you draw longer, but a short draw will never propel an arrow flatter and faster than a longer draw on the same bow.  Howard's arrows were probably pretty fast, but not because he shot 27 or 28 inches, but because he shot heavy bows. A shorter draw also enabled enabled Hill to get enough dynamic spine to shoot out of his heavy bows.

Wait a minute, I think I figured it out. Are you saying that because you don't have extra arrow length, the arrow thus weighs less and thus is flatter and faster than say a 28 or 29-inch or longer arrow of the same material out of the same bow, but still at your 27-inch draw?  Yep.  that I would agree with, but the difference would be small.  

He still has a 28" draw, the arrow is drawn onto the bow shelf, net, nothing sticking past the bow. There is more to it.  It may drop the spine requirement five pounds, but I can shoot the same spine net or broadhead length with cedars. The system is more forgiving if there is not a lot of wood hanging out and for some it is easier to control the draw length.  Even those who claim they do not see the arrow can see the arrow, so for those who like to see the same amount of shaft will have an argument for that.  I like the way net length arrows come out of the bow and aim accordingly.

[robtattoo]

Sorry, but this makes absolutley no sense to me at all.
If your draw is 28" then it's 28" Why on earth would you want to shorten your drawlenth just to shoot a shorter arrow? How do you get any kind of consistency?
I'm sorry, but the last 1" of your drawlength is where your back tension comes properly into play. If you lose that inch, all you're doing is muscling the bow back which in turn will screw your release.
Drawlength is measured to the back of the bow, so if you're drawing the point flush (How would you know that anyway?) you've shortened your draw to 27" If you're not using consistent back-tension, how do you know when you're at full draw? I know that I can touch my own anchor point at 25", but when I then expand my chest  to correctly come to full draw (still touching anchor) my draw increases by 5"! I know when I'm at full draw not because of the arrow length, which is irrelevant, but because I simply cannot expand any further without either moving off my anchor, or releasing the string!
You'd be far, far better served by learning your correct form & then sticking with it, rather than messing around with arrow length & changing your form with every shot.

[David Schroeder]

Maybe hes saying:his bow is rated at 2" but can only draw 27"..

[David Schroeder]

28" draw is 27" to him

[robtattoo]

Originally posted by David Schroeder:
Maybe hes saying:his bow is rated at 2" but can only draw 27"..

28" draw is 27" to him

Could you explan that please, I don't understand?

[vikingbear]

The late Jim Brackenbury( famous boywer)used to say that one inch of additional draw length was the equivilent to adding ten pounds of bow weight.  Just because Howard hill shot a certain way does not mean everyone should shoot that way.Lengthening your draw length can greatly improve your shooting through a better release (more back tension) and more arrow speed. Experimenting with different draw lenghts and anchor points is one of the joys of archery. So experiment, don't accept others gospel no matter how well intentioned.

[Guru]

I'm with Rob and Viking on this one...

Why anyone would want to shorten their draw length is beyond me...

[Terry Green]

Howard shot with full extention...the clips here show he had the magic 'T' and proper alignment.  His draw was shorter due to his bent bow arm.

A 26 inch draw will not shoot the same arrow at 27"s long faster than a 28 inch draw with that same arrow at 29"s long.  The 2 inch power stroke will make up the difference all day long.  Longer power stroke and 5-6# heavier will shoot the same speed if not faster than the slightly lighter shorter arrow.

Shortening your draw length the wrong way can also cause problems and take you out of alignment.

It is more difficult to shoot with a bent bow arm with a pistol grip than a straight grip. According to John Schulz that bent bow arm is a needed part of getting fluid accuracy with a longbow. For myself, feeling the point completely clear my finger is my draw check.  Of course with broadheads, I like to draw the blade to my finger. this is a different approach than using full length arrows, which i suppose is needed for getting carbons to fly for some.  I think the difference with Hill bows is about five pounds of draw performance difference per inch of draw. 27" @50 shoots about the same as 55 @ 26 with a cedar shaft.

[rpembert]

Let me rephrase myself a bit. I draw 28" but shoot a 27" arrow. The tip of my arrow is flush with the back of the bow. Its almost like an overdraw kind of. No part of the arrow is out in front of the bow.

Hope this helps to clarify what I was saying.

Joshua

[robtattoo]

Yep, you're saying that you draw 27"
Drawlength is measured to the back of the bow. You're drawing the arrow to the back of the bow. The arrow is 27" therefore your draw is 27"

[rpembert]

My draw is 28". I cut my arrows to 27". The arrow actually extends INTO the riser about an inch with out the point on it. When I put the point back on it is almost at the back of the bow(just checked again in mirror).I have checked my draw length with one of those wired arrows that check your draw and I do pull to 28. I'll get a pic to verify it soon. That setup for me works great and I love it.

Joshua

[robtattoo]

So, just to clear up any further confusion, you're shooting a 28" arrow!!!!

What it measures without the point is irrelevant. If you'd told us in the beginning that your arrow was 27" to the back of the point, we'd have stood a small chance of understanding what it is you're talking about!

Seriously, you really need to think about & be sure of the information you're giving when you post.   :rolleyes:    :rolleyes:

[rpembert]

Here is my arrow at full draw. If you say it 28" then its 28". Thought it was measured to the back of the field point. Sorry if I offended you.

Joshua

 

[robtattoo]

Not offended Joshua, just a little confused is all.

However, I still think you'd be better served by using some back tension & a longer arrow. If you're not at full extension, how do you know that you're reaching a consistent drawlength? It's very difficult to actually see that your arrow is to that point when you're shooting & 1/4" in either direction can make quite a difference to your impact point.

I do the same thing as you, there is something that works when you shoot net with blunts and target points.  Lots of folks don't quite understand the posture.  With head tilted and the elbow bent the strong muscles automatically engage even with the shorter draw length than one that is using a more upright static form.  We hear all the time that getting the arrow into the animal is more important than a few feet per second and with hunting timing comes a real close second to accuracy in the shooting department. Jerry knows his stuff Hill style longbow shooting is not quite the same as hybrids with recurve style grips and handles.