Question for those who know their "stuff.

[shaneroe]

OK, sorry if this is long winded.  I am trying to get my new bow shooting good.  I draw 29 inches and the bow is 63 pounds.  I am shooting Herritage 250s. Today I really struggled.  I am shooting at 12 yards.  First I had weight tubes in putting my arrow at 500 grains with out a point.  I then shot points from 125-250 grains.  I did this with and without the tubes in.  The 175, 200 and 250 grain points flew the best.  Here are my questions:

1.  My arrows have a slight wag to the left, just one wag, and slightly up.  Then it sticks in the target perfectly straight.  It doesn't seem to matter what point I have in, it does this.  What are your opinions on the wag?  Does an arrow that's flying correct have any wag?

2.  If I trim my arrows an inch shorter, how much will that effect my spine.

3.  My brace height was recommended 7 1/2 - 8 inches.  I got it at 8 1/4.  Does a higher brace height effect arrow wag?

Any other pointers on how to tune my arrows would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[jonsimoneau]

No, your arrows should not have any wag in them.  More than likely, they are weak.  YES...a higher brace height will make your arrows wag more. The higher the brace height, the more stiff your arrows will act. Put your brace height at what the manufacturer suggests to start with.  Then see what they do.  More than likely, they will stiffen up. If the arrows are still weak, you can lower the point wieght or cut them down.  Cut carbons at 1/4 inch at a time.  1/4 inch makes a big difference.  Cutting them down will make them act stiffer. When you are trying to tune...only mess with one thing at a time. Don't be adding weight tubes, and changing points at the same time.  I would get rid of the weight tubes.  Get the arrows to fly right first...then if the weight is not where you want it...go from there. Go to this website and follow the tuning instructions to the T and you will be in good shape.   www.bowmaker.net.    It takes some messing with, but that is part of the fun!  Once you get your arrows flying perfectly, right down everything about your setup, so that when you run out of arrows, you can just order new ones...set everything up and be good to go!  Good luck!

[Guru]

Good advice from Jon    

[xtrema312]

How long are your arrows now?  Backing up some can help you see better what is going on with the spine as you get closer to the correct spine.  Go with the link above to work out the tuning.  

Small changes to carbon length are key I think.  I also wanted to short cut the process and cut a lot off to get in the ballpark when I started working with carbons.  I have found that if my bare shaft is like 12" out of the group at 20 yd. I can take off 1/2"  without concern.  One of those little chop saws from Harbor Freight was the best investment in carbon arrow building I have made.  It is a cheap way to shoot at home and cut them down as I tune.

I find length changes on carbons to be hard to nail down.  I see different spine reactions with small length changes dependent on overhang of the shaft.  Once I get a point weight and shaft length figured out it is easier to make a guess where to go for length with a different point weight.   I use Stu's spine calculator to take a known arrow and figure an different set-up, but I still cut that last 1/4"-1/2" based on bare shafting or broadhead shooting.

[shaneroe]

Thanks guys.  My arrows are 30 inches and I have about an inch to work with is all.

[xtrema312]

I would not do any cutting.  If you can dial it in real close then I would say maybe cut 1/4" to fine tune.  You can also build out the strike plate or adjust brace if you need to stiffen up a little.  Use the link and back up to 15 or 20 yd. to see where the bare shafts hit.  Change the points around some to make sure of your tune.  The tubes may stiffen your arrow some.  I hear hey don't and do change your spine, but I have never used them so I don't know.

The center cut of the bow will make a big difference in your arrow spine needs so it is hard to guess what end of the range to look with the points you have.  Start heavy and work down so you don't get over stiff and end up a false weak.

[L82HUNT]

I have found that a lower brace requires a weaker arrow even thou you have a longer power stroke.  Although if your right there on spine I can change my brace alot with no ill effect.

 

[shaneroe]

So let me make sure I'm right.  The lower the brace height is better for a weaker arrow?  The higher the brace height and my arrow better be stiffer to shoot good?  Thanks again.

[Scooter]

What L82 hunt said.

[Roughrider]

Are you sure you're not just seeing the natural "archer's paradox" as the arrow flexes on release?

[shaneroe]

No, not sure.  After some shooting this week I think my arrows are underspined.

[jbuck9]

If I was shooting 63# at a 29" draw I'd go with the 340, instaed of the 250.
If you have any velcro stick a piece on your side shelf and see if that helps, that will make a weak spine act stiffer.

[lpcjon2]

Focus on the target and not the wagger,Paper tune it and look at the tear and then you will know.

[shaneroe]

Yep, I bare shafted it and the arrows are weak.  Stu's chart says the same.  Thanks.