Frustrating! What do you think?

[shaneroe]

I had a previous post a few days ago and I've been doing what some of you had said.  I am still struggeling though.  Lucky for me, a good guy has PM me and offering to help.  I just want to see what you all said.

My arrows still have a "wag" up before hitting the target.  Maybe a touch left too.  Then they stick in perfect.  This is at about 15 yards.  I have moved my brace height, nock point, trimmed my arrows down an inch, tried different point weights, taken weight tubes out and left them in, put an extra nock on since I'm 3 under, and I even did a dance!  What else should I do?  Did I buy the wrong spined arrows?

My bow is 60 inches
63 pounds at 29 inches
Arrows are Herritage 250s cut to 30 inches

Any suggestions?

[Cecil]

Is that with a bare shaft?

[shaneroe]

No, it's not.  I know, it should be.  When I ordered my arrows they came fletched.  I wasn't sure what else to do.

[rpembert]

What size feathers do you have? I had that problem and corrected it by using 5 1/2" feathers as per Jerry Hill's instructions. I was using 2213 xx75 @28" and a 65# longbow. Arrows would fly all over the place. I had only 4" feathers and replaced them with 5 1/2, no more worries. They fly great.

I now have the Easton Legacy 2018 with 5 1/2" feathers and thats the best combo.

Joshua

[shaneroe]

They are 5 inch feathers.

[McDave]

You can learn a lot from bare shafts.  I think you can learn even more from shooting fletched arrows that have had the feathers cut back to the quill.  Just take one of your fletched arrows and trim off the feathers right above the quill with scissors or a sharp knife, leaving the quill and just a hairline of feathers intact.  This will give you a more accurate bare shaft reading than a bare shaft, because the weight of the quill and glue affects arrow flight.  It will also allow you to determine if you have any quill contact with your arrow shelf or riser.  I like to have one of each kind of arrow that I shoot fixed this way, and periodically shoot it to see if anything has changed with my tuning.  One thing different about shooting with trimmed feathers over a bare shaft is that any problems with a bare shaft will get worse the further downrange the bare shaft goes; the trimmed feathers and quill will have some stabilizing effect on the arrow as it goes downrange, so you need to look at what's happening at 15-20 yards.

You think, why should I ruin one of my fletched arrows?  For me, it's the best investment I could make with one of my arrows.  You're going to ruin them all eventually anyway!

[shaneroe]

Thanks.  I'll try it.

[shaneroe]

Todays carbon arrows should fit a fairly large range of bow weights right?  So how do you know if you just have the wrong dang arrow?  Thanks.

[Jeremy]

Forget how they wag in flight for a few shooting sessions.  That can easily be just a release issue.

Get some broadheads that weigh the same as your field points and shoot 3 of each in a round.  Compare where the two groups are in relation to each other(not to the bull).  That can tell you everything that's wrong.

[gvdocholiday]

What's your point weight?  I only ask because that sounds like you may be a little weak in spine.  

I know with my setup 45@28 I'm shooting a 28.5" long Heritage 250 with 212 grains(compined with insert) up front.  Sounds like you may need to move up to 350's or really start cutting down/dropping point weight.

Another thing you can try...shoot a few arrows cock feather in...see if that solves your problem.  You may be getting some quill contact with your bottom hen feather...this little test will let you know.

[shaneroe]

I want my arrow to be between 600 and 700 g.  so I've been shooting points from 145-250.  

My arrows are about 30 inches long.  I'm starting to think too that I need to get the 350s.

Again, thanks for the input.  I'm willing to try anything.  Buying new arrows all the time gets expensive.

[gvdocholiday]

You can usually get tuning kits from some places that include several different point weights and a few arrows of different spines to play with before making the investment in the full dozen.

[kevsuperg]

http://heilakka.com/stumiller/   try this , it helped me

[Longbow338]

Stu can get you close but for me thats not good enough do some bare shafting to find out what the bow likes.

[shaneroe]

I did what you all say and bare shafted.  I was low and right.  Then I went to Stu's chart and according to Stu's chart I'm quite a bit underspined. I could shoot a real light point, like 100 or 125 and be OK, but I don't want to.  I think I'm going to go ahead and get the 350s.  Does that make sense?  Thanks for all your input!

Shane

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by Jeremy:
Forget how they wag in flight for a few shooting sessions.  That can easily be just a release issue.

Get some broadheads that weigh the same as your field points and shoot 3 of each in a round.  Compare where the two groups are in relation to each other(not to the bull).  That can tell you everything that's wrong.

Very sound advice right there.

Also, when using Stu's calculator, make sure you enter the correct entry for center shot. In my opinion, this is the single most important, yet most often overlooked, entry you enter into the calculation.