Arrow pulls away from Riser

[Jock Whisky]

I had this problem a few weeks ago. After shooting for over fifty years I was pulling my hair out trying to find the reason. Turned out that the velcro I was using for shelf material had worn such that it was sloped away from the riser. All I had to do was touch the arrow and it fell off. Drove me nuts until I started thinking out of the box. I replaced it and no more problem.

[Boneyard Bowhunter]

Look at your draw hand palm at your face. Put your finger in the middle of your palm. Tension in this spot is the cause of the arrow pulling away from the shelf. It is that simple. Practice your draw imagining your hand as a dead hook. Fingers must remain loose. Practice up close to the target till you can draw with your whole hand completely relaxed. REMEMBER, IT IS THAT SIMPLE!!!!!!

[Marksman Quivers]

I was having this problem but only when drawing on an animal, never when just shooting targets.
I figured out what it was recently.
When shooting targets I would place my 3 finger under tab quite precisely on the string, butted up against my bottom nock.
But when in the heat of it drawing down on an animal it seems my hand placement was not so precise, causing my top finger to put pressure on the arrow nock causing it to pull away from the shelf.
I made my bottom a little longer which gives more clearance between finger and nock.
Seems to have done the trick.
Mark.

[Paul_R]

I grab the string in a tight fist as I'm bringing the bow up and relax as I'm drawing back. The string rolling toward my fingertips holds the arrow on the shelf. Thanks Terry!

[Triphammer]

OK, Recent member here so please bear with me. The deep hook you're talking about, do you release from a deep hook. I've been shooting bows, on & off ( mostly off) for going on 50 years. the deep hook, anything past the first joint was WRONG!!!back when I was first learning. Granted I haven't kept up with trends but I was taught to use the finger pads, about where you'd place your finger on a rifle trigger. A deep hook would make it easier to pull a heavy bow, but a release from where I'm understanding this to be would cause accuracy problems. I shoot 50 - 55#, always have.

[moebow]

Triphammer,

You get the best chance at a good release with the string in or very near the first joints of your fingers.  A "deep hook" is NOT how far down the fingers the string is towards your palm but rather how far around the string your finger tips are curled with the string in or near the first joint crease.

A VERY common error is to THINK that the string on the finger tips gives a better release but it DOES NOT!  That causes far too much tension in the hand and arm AND a "pile" of finger skin in front of the string that the string must move around.

There is a lot of discussion about this here on the "Form forum."

Arne

PS.  Check out this thread :  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=007254

[Boneyard Bowhunter]

If you put your draw hand palm up and make a cup with your hand you will see the spot where all the problem is. The lowest spot. Tension in this spot causes the fingers to curve and the arrow follows the fingers.
R-E-L-A-X the palm and take a deep hook. Let the string rip from your hand when you are on target.

[Kajidourden]

I was having similar issues until I read this thread.  After my first time shooting I kind of got the hint when my fingers were killing me.  The reason for that was I was trying to pull my arrow with the second "pad" of my fingers, with the string resting in my second "indent".  It became glaringly apparent once i took my glove off and kind of had a "well damn" moment when I looked at my glove and realized only that first "pad" is gauntelented.  
Anyhow, point being working on my hook and form with pulling not only greatly improved my comfort (no pain) but also my consistency and the arrow pulling away.  In my second time shooting I was able to pull of a nice, tight group of 6 arrows with mostly just this adjustment.

[Triphammer]

I must apologize for not getting back sooner.
First, another thanks to MoeBow. I had always needed to use a hard to very hard glove while shooting with the string on my finger tip pads. I tried what Arne said in this thread about the deep hook & no more painful fingertips, I can use a much softer glove & really feel when my release is right. I can even use a tab now, never could b4. Tabs aren't my favorite but it bothered me that I Couldn't use one, even thought I didn't.

[NYArrow]

After taking some time off from shooting....I returned with spotty accuracy. Decided to switch to 3 under shooting and my accuracy dialed right in! I was grouping nice and tight out to 30yds. Then I realized the change that made the difference was not the 3 under but the deep hook I used while shooting 3 under...back to split finger w/ a deep hook and grouping well again!

[LPM]

With a split finger drawing style (one finger up and two under),I found the quickest way to eliminate this problem is to bring the bottom two fingers up against the arrow nock firmly and put very little pressure on the top of the nock with the top finger.

When I teach a first time shooter about finger placement its the first thing I show them.

Cures the problem for youngsters right off.

[skypilot39b]

Originally posted by Terry Green:
This is very typical of a new shooter just starting out. Hopefully this answer will get you started off correctly.

If you DON'T point your fingers back toward you....when the draw gets heavier, you are curling the fingers back toward you to help you with the weight.....and YOU are rolling the arrow off the shelf.

If you WILL point the fingers back at you to begin with, the weight will make the fingers UNCURL ...keeping the arrow ON the shelf.

I covered all this and reverse cant on The Bowhunters of TradGang DVD's shooting section.

thank you for explaining something I've been confused about, I'll give that a shot and we'll see what happens

[Terry Green]

Originally posted by Wolftrail:
I cured that problem by canting the bow. Or is this wrong..?

Actually, by doing it the correct way, you can reverse cant and keep the arrow on the shelf.

[Smallwood]

i will sometimes pull the arrow off the shelf as i draw. Usually when this happens i find that i am cupping my draw hand, instead of keeping the back of my hand straight/flat.

[whitewolf77]

I have also found that when I hold 3 fingers under the nock instead of 1 finger above that the arrow stopped jumping to the left. This also helped my aim.

[bowberry]

I just got back into archery about 8 months ago. I was practicing with a 30# bow. I switched to a 55# bow and the arrow jumped off on every draw. drove me crazy. canting didnt help. also I strained the tendons in my fingers/hand (scared me!)I read this thread and Terrys description of "point your fingers back to you and they will un-curl as you draw" totally clicked. Problem solved instantly. no more arrow jump,no more finger pain. thanks Terry. Now and then when it happens I just know what I'm doing wrong and instantly correct.

[Petrichor]

Never had this issue but so interesting to read!!!

[mboustany]

As a newbie to archery I have been having trouble with the arrow coming off the rest. Just found this old thread and look forward to trying a deep hook with relaxed wrist and hand to rotate the arrow into the shelf. Thanks everybody!

[Draven]

If you grab the string up on the middle of the second phalange of the middle finger and let it roll in the crease between 1st and 2nd phalanges while drawing (deep hook)  the string rolling movement through arrow nock will push the arrow secure against the bow shelf.
PS This rolling happens in first inches of draw or it can be done right before drawing, when you position the string on your "deep hook". I prefer to do it before drawing, but to each his own.

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by Terry Green:
 

Originally posted by Wolftrail:
I cured that problem by canting the bow. Or is this wrong..?

Actually, by doing it the correct way, you can reverse cant and keep the arrow on the shelf. [/b]

OK but I think I'll keep canting to the right.  Of course a proper hook does the trick.