New Instinctive shooter Advice

[RecurveHunter01]

Hello Everyone, I've been shooting a recurve occasionally for the past few years. An old bear, late 70's I think, kodiak Hunter 55# AMO 60 in. I am right eye dominant and draw at 28 in. However I have always shot with a peep site, I was alright grouping like 5 to 7 in at 25 yards, but being in college I never really put much time into it. This year though I want to hunt and shoot instinctively. I have time to practice so hopefully I can be deadly at 20 yards by October. But I wanted a little advice before I started.
1. First off what is a good broadhead/field tip target that can take a lot of shots and is not overly priced?

2. I like the idea of shooting off the shelf but I'm obsessed with the idea of achieving as much speed as possible from my bow, and I worry about fletching clearance. Although I wonder if with archer paradox if a correctly tuned set up would clear it or not.

3. I have tried tuning my setup based off of online reading but I think hearing the difference in brace height is hard and bareshaft tuning to be a major hassle but I got to where it was effective.

4. I like durability of carbons but I have always had to buy weight tubes for them to get them to ~500 grains for deer hunting. I don't like the tubes but might be the best option.

5. I shoot split finger with index over the nock, and always draw my index finger to the corner of my mouth. Is that good or is it too low or too short like not maxing the draw I could get ( I Like Speed [Smile] ) is it too inconsistent since you can move your mouth and finger?

6. And finally how do I practice, start close and pick a spot and shoot until I group decent and move out? Eventually try stump shooting?

And Finally I live in little rock so if anyone wants to show a newb how it's done here's your chance. And sorry for the excessive post, I'm just excited about starting to master a new hobby!

[cahaba]

First welcome to tradgang. I'm no expert but i will give my opinion till the other guys chime in.

1. Broadheads are usually a personal choice. Some like 3 bladed heads like the Woodsman and say it leaves a better blood trail. I personally like STOS 160 gr. 2 blade heads. They are easy to sharpen and fly well. A VERY sharp broadhead is a must.

2.Most folks here do shoot off the shelf. As long as you use feathers it won't be a problem.

3.Brace height for that bow should be between 8 to 8 1/4" on average.

4.Don't know what carbons you are using but it should be easy to get to 550/600 for your draw weight.

5. I personally draw to my back tooth and tuck my thumb under and behind lower jaw with my middle finger touching the tooth. This gives you two anchors. Some guys fletch thier arrows so the feather touches thier nose for 3 points of contact. I'm working on that.

6. Yes start close and get them grouping well but you need your bow and arrows tuned first. Practice getting your form down so you can create some muscle memory.

Try and get over the "speed thing" If you shooting 175 FPS you doing good. It will seem slow compared to the wheelies but trad bows are IMO the ultimate hunting weapon. Traditional bows are not inherently fast when compared to wheelies. Get Masters of the Barebow3 video. PM me if you have anymore questions and I will share what I know.

[eric-thor]

i second that ... definately get Masters of the Barebow III. and let us know how its going ..

[arky714]

Learn about bareshaft tuning ...it tells about everything you need to know about seting up bow try 55/75 gold tip arrows best bang for buck get pleanty of diffrent weight points 150 gr to 250 grain, maybe some 50 and 100 grain brass inserts,start tuning and let the fun happen...dave

[Terry Green]

On cellphone.  Can't type much.  As far as arrows......500+ grains is easy.

Arrow dynamics trads.

[reddogge]

Most guys that shoot split anchor with the middle finger in corner which brings the arrow a little closer to the eye and most use corner of mouth and some other index like thumb knuckle on jawbone or under ear or something like that to give you a better feel for your anchor.

You want your bow to shoot where you look and your brain will compensate for yardage.