Shooting a bow Cut to Center…hitting right.

[Oliverstacy]

I have a question on shooting a bow cut to center and a bow not cut to center and the differences between the two.  I shoot Beman MFX and Easton Axis skinny carbons.

I draw 29.5” and shoot 30.5” arrows.  400 spine for all bows close to 58 lbs and 500s for the Savannah.

To date I have only shot bows that were not cut to center and I shoot them fairly well…for the most part I can pick them up (any of them) and within a dozen arrows I’m shooting nice groups with them.  I really like this and it allows me to shoot all of them without a ton of effort.

Now I have just started shooting my 60”Kanati longbow that IS cut to center and I’m hitting a consistent 6-8” right of center…good tight groups but they’re just to the right.  I thought I had a week spine on the arrows I was using so I lowered my point weight to try to compensate for what I thought was a week spine.  I was amazed that I could take 50 grains off the front and not notice one bit of difference in arrow flight…all were right and straight in the target.  Arrow flight seems to be very good!

Is this a thing my body will adjust to if I shoot just this bow…I like consistency and would shoot just this bow but I’m afraid that I’ll zero my body for this bow and shoot the rest to the left when I go to shoot them.

Is this also a reason that people ask if a bow is cut to center?

Thanks,

Josh

[NIGEL01]

Don't have a answer just more questions.  I shoot Axis 500's with bows ranging from low 40's to mid 50#s found 30" to be the best length. My long bow is the only bow cut to center, I find it more forgiving.  When I shot 2018's though it, the arrows all hit the same area, but when shooting older Bear recurves 9" inches left.  I'm trying to get to a point where I can use the same arrow for all my bows, just changing broadheads.  I've also noticed that I need a little less FOC for broadheads then I do for field points, just throwing out my observations. I'm still only in the mid 400's for grain weight on my hunting arrows, worry about penetration.

[Winterhawk1960]

Double sided carpet tape from Lowe's. It might take more than one "thickness" of it, but keep adding to, until your arrow is hitting where you are looking. $10.00 for a liftetime supply. Can also be used to "stick" on strike-plates as well as side-plates.

Winterhawk1960

[kevgsp]

My setup is almost identical 58" Kanati 55@28 that I draw to a hair over 29" so 57-58lbs. My arrows are .340 cut to 30.5 with 250 grains up front. Standard carbons not the skinnies.

My other r/d bows same weight not cut to center I shoot .400 spine same length/point weight.

Kanati being quick and cut to center needs a stiffer arrow than I thought. This was my first center cut bow too.

[Oliverstacy]

Originally posted by kevgsp:
My setup is almost identical 58" Kanati 55@28 that I draw to a hair over 29" so 57-58lbs. My arrows are .340 cut to 30.5 with 250 grains up front. Standard carbons not the skinnies.

My other r/d bows same weight not cut to center I shoot .400 spine same length/point weight.

Kanati being quick and cut to center needs a stiffer arrow than I thought. This was my first center cut bow too.

I have 340's at home...I might try this.  The arrows would be heavy...around 735 grains!

Josh

[kevgsp]

I use easton powerflights that are 10gr per inch, finished arrow is around 600gr. Roughly 10gr per #

[bigiron]

start building out side plate with black electrical tape til you get the arrow dead on with good flight. pull it off & mic it, then replace with same thickness of leather or some suitable material of your choosing. cheaP & QUICK.

[BRITTMAN]

If your arrows are tuned to the bow then Id be willing to bet its just how the grip fits your hand or the way the site window looks to you or maybe both . I had a couple of longbows that shot to the right for me no matter  what I tried . Some bows just work better for diffrent people and maybe the Kanait just isnt right for your style of shooting . I will say that I had one bow that shoot off to the right for me that I made myself learn to shoot but I had to change my natural shooting style to do it . After hunting season was over I traded the bow and went back to one that just naturaly worked for me .BTW I had a Kanati once and it shot great for me , I love Jasons bows .

Mike

[Oliverstacy]

Originally posted by bigiron:
start building out side plate with black electrical tape til you get the arrow dead on with good flight. pull it off & mic it, then replace with same thickness of leather or some suitable material of your choosing. cheaP & QUICK.

That is a great idea...I'm still playing around with the set-up...looks like if I take around 100 grains off the front it helps also.

Josh

[Gene R]

I was hitting to the right the other day. I found out I was twisting the string. I was working overtime to get the middle finger solid at the corner of my mouth. I was overdoing it causing me string hand to tense up. This caused my shots to hit to the right. Not saying that that is what your doing but when I corrected the problem my arrows flew great. Also my bow was alot quieter.

[Fletcher]

Run some wood thru it.  Longbows are always happier shooting wood.    :D    

[Mitch-In-NJ]

I foind that my cut-to-center r/d bow requires arrows that are much stiffer than the spine charts suggest.

The bow is 55# @ 28" and I have a 29.5" draw.  But I have to shoot 2216s cut down to about 30.5" with 125gr up front.  According to the charts that should be way too stiff, but they fly really good.

I was tuning today and I am getting really close to bareshaft darts at 20 yards.  Having trouble with a slight nock high indication and may be back on here for a little help, but spine-wise, I am dead on.

I can't explain it, but it may be that the cut to center isn't accounted for in the charts or maybe the bow just likes arrows of a larger diameter.

[TSP]

First guess is that you're collapsing just a bit...maybe due to the new grip.  Before changing a bunch of hardware try focusing on back tension/pulling through more to see if that helps.

[scriv]

Short answer, yes, you will adapt to it.  Then your other bows will likely shoot left.  I had this same issue when i first bought my ACS-CX after having shot another bow for some time.  If I were inclined to work around it I would focus on pushing the bow "to the target" through release.  The draw and release is a two sided affair, that is both arms have to participate.  If one is focused to heavily on the drawing arm the shot will tend to go right for a right handed shooter.  Good luck.

[shoot yea]

I had the same problem with a new bow. The arrow nocks where loose on the string after they clicked on. Another string nock cured the problem. The arrow was moving down on the string after release. See a former discussion and video on this.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by Winterhawk1960:
Double sided carpet tape from Lowe's. It might take more than one "thickness" of it, but keep adding to, until your arrow is hitting where you are looking. $10.00 for a liftetime supply. Can also be used to "stick" on strike-plates as well as side-plates.

Winterhawk1960

I was thinking the exact same thing. Your shooting style has gotten tuned to compensating for longbows that shoot a little left even when they are tuned perfectly. I've noticed this when I switch from recurve with cut out in the riser and I hit dead center with, then switch to a longbow I automatically shoot left, then after about 4-5 rounds I am re-tuned to the difference in the way the bow shoots and my groups start to come back over.
Try building out the riser/cutout portion and I bet you will notice a difference right away.
Good advice Winterhawk.

Right now I've got some tuning problems of my own with my Osage longbow I'm trying to work out.
Good Luck!

[KumaSan]

Thanks for the information guys. I've been shooting a 2016 (500) easton XX75 from my longbow, and was quite happy with performance but wanted to check the arrows bareshaft. In doing so, I find the bareshafts strike right of my fletched arrows. This would indicate a weak arrow. So, I changed the tip to 100 gr from 125 gr, and they hit farther right.

Now I'm wondering if I simply adjusted to the bow and compensated for the strike plate being too thin. I'll try the electric tape to thicken the strike plate and see what happens. I want the bare shaft to be correct for the best tuning.

[KumaSan]

Thanks for the information guys. I've been shooting a 2016 (500) easton XX75 from my longbow, and was quite happy with performance but wanted to check the arrows bareshaft. In doing so, I find the bareshafts strike right of my fletched arrows. This would indicate a weak arrow. So, I changed the tip to 100 gr from 125 gr, and they hit farther right.

Now I'm wondering if I simply adjusted to the bow and compensated for the strike plate being too thin. I'll try the electric tape to thicken the strike plate and see what happens. I want the bare shaft to be correct for the best tuning.

[KumaSan]

Well, I added four pieces of tape to my side plate and with an adjustment to three pieces of tape, the bare shafts are now hitting with the fletched arrows. I removed the side plate and added the foam backing tape to achieve the same thickness. Thanks for the tape suggestion.

Richard

[OBXarcher]

I had a Kanati, it was not picky at all with rrows. It shot everything well.

I get the exact same thing when I go from my Bear TD to my BW. Good groups just 6 inches to the right.

Smart thing would be to get rid of one of them but then again I ain't to smart.