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Author Topic: Arrow problems  (Read 625 times)

Offline Maze

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Arrow problems
« on: September 20, 2010, 02:19:00 PM »
I have 2 bows (1)Martin Dream Catcher and (1) '72 Bear Super Kodiak. Both bows are 50# @ 28". I shoot off of a rest with both bows. I'm shooting Easton Legacy 2016's out of both bows.

The only difference is my string on the Dream Catcher is smaller in diameter compared to the Super Kodiak.  

With the Dream Catcher I have good arrow flight (visually, not paper tuned) but I can't get good groups, to save my life.

So, I tried the Super Kodiak.

With the Super Kodiak, I have poor arrow flight,(once again visually) the arrows are kicking left as if they're weak spined. For some reason, I can group arrows better with this bow than I can with the Dream Catcher.

The only problem that I'm aware of is: My nocks are too tight on the bow string with the super kodiak. That probably has some effect on my arrow flight but I would think it would effect my grouping a whole lot more.

Any ideas why 2 bows with the same draw weight and draw lengh can't shoot the same arrow? Are my nocks effecting the arrow flight that much?

Offline cbCrow

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Re: Arrow problems
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2010, 03:15:00 PM »
Not all bows are created equal. Because they are both the same weight does not mean they will shoot the same. It seems to me you have a couple of things going on here. Nocks; if too tight can cause irratic flight, too loose can slip on string and cause the same. Strings; what kind of string does each bow have, the Kodiak is probably B50 and that makes a big difference, find out what kind of strings is on each bow. You didn't state what draw length you are shooting, are you sure a 2016 is the proper arrow to use? Because it works on one bow does not mean it will work on the other. More info needed.

Offline Wapiti Bowman

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Re: Arrow problems
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2010, 03:17:00 PM »
There are several possibilities:1) Possible difference in depth of face plate cut, i.e., center cut vs 1/8" proud of center, or other?; 2) Different shelf width causing feather kick off? 3)Speed of bows with new vs older materials?; 4) Difference in brace hights?; 5)Different grips causing different follow through?; and I'm sure there will be other possibilities mentioned.

Yes, the difference in nock fit can make a difference in arrow flight and grouping; but predicting that difference would be a "crap shoot"        :wavey:

Offline Maze

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Re: Arrow problems
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2010, 02:34:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by cbCrow:
 Strings; what kind of string does each bow have, the Kodiak is probably B50 and that makes a big difference, find out what kind of strings is on each bow. You didn't state what draw length you are shooting, are you sure a 2016 is the proper arrow to use?  More info needed.
The Dream Catcher looks like it has a B50 flemish and the Kodiak looks like it has a B50 Dacron.

My draw lengh is 28"

No, I'm not sure if a 2016 is the right arrow to use....I went with what the bow shop told me I should go with. I didnt do any bare shaft tuning to figure out the correct spine when I bought/cut the arrows. I just bought the arrows and added the tips and started shooting. After watching Masters of the Barebow, I know how important it is to get the right arrow now.

I think I'm going to try a new string to start with.

If you want anymore info let me know.

Wapiti Bowman is right, I'm sure there are a lot of other factors that play into this.

Offline cbCrow

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Re: Arrow problems
« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2010, 07:23:00 AM »
Maze, I plugged in your info at Stu Millers Calculator and it says that with dacron strings at your dimemsions given you should be using a 29" 1916 arrow. After you get a new string and set up go do a search for the above memtioned calculator. I used to do alot of bareshaft and paper tuning to get my arrows right, but since finding this tool it has made things a lot easier. I still paper test sometimes to see if things are right and that calc. is right about 99% of the time.  :archer:

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