I can't stand it!!
Has any one considered why all carbom makers recomend a high speed thin abrasive cut off wheel?
They don't sell them, so the reason must be that it is the best way to cut carbon shafts without ruining them . Things like hack saws , thick blades,and grinding wheels shred the inside of the shaft.
If you have a bench grinder get a ZIP disc to use for cutting. Discs of 3/64 and thinner come with arbour sizes to fit any grinder/saw from 1/4" to 3/4".
I have plans to make a saw on my site from a sewing machine motor for free. This is what is on the Apple saw. Take off the motor and read the lable. "Singer". You can get the Apple disc and the arbour to mount it on your sewing machine motor from any archery shop or make your own coupling.
Dremmel tools, die grinders all can be clamped down and used with a cutting disc.
Using things like hack saws on carbon arrows is like using an AXE on wood shafts.
I am all for saving money , but for heavens sake it is not an expensive proposition to do it right.
The unfortunate thing about the net is the bad advice that is given. I have received a hard drive full of Email asking why carbon arrows are getting the insert pushed up inside or pulling out. There are 2 causes, the glue is no good, or the inside wrap is loosened from poor cutting and lost it's bond to the outer wrap.
When you do cut a carbon shaft with the right disc, set it up so that the disc just goes thru the wall and rotate the shaft to complete the cut.
Making a straight thru cut damages the inside layer of the shaft. You may not see the damage, or you may see fibers that are fraying from the inside. Frequently this results in an insert being pushed up on a hard impact, or the insert pulling out with carbon fibers still attached to it. In other words it delaminates.
Here are the gluse that I have had failures with. We read every day someone says they use these with no trouble. We also read that they fail!!
Archery pro shops love glues that fail, great for sales, and they can say " wow your bow is powerfull" "better get more expensive shafts for that baby"
They also like to glue them up and say go shoot, so they don't have to store them while they glue cures.
These fail, some right away, others last a few momths before the glue gets brittle.
hot melts
crazy glue
CA glues thick & thin
loctite black and clear in every type, thick and thin.
5 min, 10 min, and 1 hour epoxy
ferrel tite
The glues I have found that do work and last are 24 hour slow cure flexible or impact resistant epoxy.
I use the Epoxy from Golf Works called "Shafting Epoxy". Any golf pro shop has it for attaching golf club heads to carbon shafts.
Pete