Draw Length - am I cheating myself....

[Rossco7002]

Gurus of form, please answer me this:

If I measure my potential draw length using a yard stick on my chest and then reach out in front of me I come up with a measurement of 26.5 - 27 inches depending on how far I stretch.

I have noticed that I tend to actually draw my bows (HH Wesley Special and Toelke Whips) to about 25.75 inches. I anchor with my middle finger on my canine tooth which puts my thumb knuckle right on top of the hinge in my jaw (not behind the jaw bone). Using this anchor I can sit at full draw for several seconds and then release a nice controlled shot (using back tension) with my string hand coming to rest on my shoulder.

If I attempt to draw past this point and anchor with my thumb knuckle behind my jaw I loose my ability to sit at full draw for several seconds and release almost immediately - resulting in less accuracy.

Do I have to be honest with myself and accept that I have a puny draw length and get on with things or am I short changing myself of an inch or so and just need to relearn my shot sequence?

Thoughts and opinions welcome.

[Mike Most]

You might be cheating your self on draw weight.

For Instance, if your drawing 26"  on a bow marked 50lbs at 28" you may be shooting a 44 lb draw weight.... at that length. (if an inch of draw is indeed equal to 3 lbs draw weight)

[McDave]

Full draw really doesn't have anything to do with where you anchor.  Full draw is when you have achieved the alignment shown in Terry's form clock, i.e. when your forearm is in alignment with the arrow, viewed from above.  You may already be coming to full draw, or not; it's impossible to tell without looking at your alignment.  Even if you're coming to full draw, there are things you might be doing that would shorten your draw by an inch, such as bending your left elbow or opening the alignment of your shoulders.  Some people who come to full draw shoot better with their shoulders slightly open to the target and/or bending their bow arm slightly, which might cause them to draw shorter than their maximum potential draw length, so long as they do these things consistently.

Fred Asbell feels that shortening your draw length by adopting the form he advocates can increase your accuracy when shooting instinctively at typical hunting distances.  Most other archery "guru's" would probably disagree, and would favor an upright stance, shoulders perpendicular to the target, and little or no bend in the bow arm, which would cause you to come closer to your maximum potential draw length.  Both camps would agree that you should come to full draw.

[last arrow]

If you have good alignment and everything is stable at full draw and at your release, you may be at your natural draw length. The method you used to establish your "potential" draw length is just a starting point estimate, nothing more.  Based on your description of your release it sounds like things are lined up well - it is hard to get your hand to move straight back to your sholder at release if you do not have proper alignment.  

Changing good form just to increase draw length can lead to other problems.  Confirm your alignment before making any changes.  I suggest you post a picture to get better feedback if you are unsure.

[Rossco7002]

Thanks for the input guys - maybe I'll just have to come to acceptance with the fact that I just don't have quite the goliath wing span that I'd like. If I try to anchor further back I get left/right misses and I'm at alignment with this anchor anyway so might as well just enjoy good shooting at whatever number of inches that is.

[njloco]

Depending on your age, when you draw a bow with weight in tends to compress your bones a little, I measure 28" draw by measure, but actually draw 26 1/2" under a bows weight, believe me when I say I don't feel handicapped.