Experimenting with 3 under - Do I need to change the nocking point?

[privateer]

I've been trying to shoot 3 under (after shooting split for years).

Do I need to change the bow setup?  Nocking point?  What else?

[Gregg S]

When I switched I had to move my nock point up about 1/8".

Some folks report they need to raise the nocking point when going from split finger to 3-under. It sounds reasonable, since you're actually changing the tiller a bit--a very little bit.

[Docdevin]

I don't want to sidetrack the thread but if I can also ask a similar question, I am shooting my reflex deflex bow I made off of a bear hair and leather pad rest, three under.  I have a Bear Grizzly that I love to shoot just for fun but it has a one finger wire rest and I am squared off of that and it shoots pretty well.  I want to go back to the bear hair and leather pad rest with it as well and maybe hunt with it because it is so light and fast.  The question is do you all leave a gap for fletching between your bear hair and your leather pad or do you set the leather all the way down onto the crown next to the bear hair for best consitancy.  And I will place a new nock and still be three under.

If your arrows are properly spined to the bow, it’s a non-issue.  The arrow will pull away from and around the riser and the fletching will never touch the rest at that point.  That gap some guys leave between the rest and plate doesn’t serve any purpose at all—unless they’re shooting a release at centershot.

You may find this clip interesting:

 

[Scarne]

Originally posted by privateer:
I've been trying to shoot 3 under (after shooting split for years).

Do I need to change the bow setup?  Nocking point?  What else?

You will quite likely have to move the nock up.  More than you might think.  I'm at 7/8" above square on my BW, PSA and it is tillered for three under.  It will all seem wierd at first.  Also your brance height may need tweeting but that is minor compared to the nock setting.

To maintain a similar sight picture as split try and keep the nock in the same place on the corner of your mouth (cheek etc.) as when you were shooting split finger.  

My index finger comes to the corner of my mouth and the arrow is right above my finger.  With split, the arrow would be right under my finger.  To maintian the same sight picture you will have to raise your drawing hand up by one fingers worth. (I know...it's technical..8^0 )

Once you get comforatable with the concept of split and no more arrow pinch on the draw you will likely find your groups get tighter.

Eventually you will likely anchor (if you arn't already) as most do...index at the corner of your mouth.  

Here's a tip...use an eliminator button same as a compound techie would with a release.  Put an extra on the string above the string silencer just in case you need it.  

Hope this helps some.

[Diamond Paul]

Most guys I know who shoot this way also tie a second nock point under the nock.  If your bow is tillered for split, you will definitely need a higher nock point; not as extreme if your bow  tiller is zero.

[tonitrui arcus]

Jim Castro:  That was a great video of the arrow spine.
Thank you.