More Woodie Questions

[buckeyebowhunter]

Sorry for all these questions guys I'm just curious. But thats what this forums for anyway. I was wondering what spine of arrows I would need. My Bow is 60# My draw is about 28 inches. And I was wondering if most wood arrows are straight right out of the box, if not how do you straighten them. My last question for now is when gluin on your broadheads how do you make sure they're good n straight on the shaft, without buying a forty dollar spin tester. I'm wondering all about wooden arrows because I'm just starting to get into them, Ive only used Easton Legacys.

[longbowben]

[**DONOTDELETE**]

some will say the same weight....others will say add 5-10#'s... Also need more info... what type of bow, how close to center cut is it, what type of string, what point weight do you plain on using.

I would say 29"BOP 125grn points to start with and try 70-75# shafts & tune per O.L.'s website.

[Hot Hap]

After mounting the BH just spin it on your workbench and watch the shaft where it meets the BH. Should be no wobble.
To straighten I spin the shaft on my thumb and forefinger while sighting down the shaft looking for bends. If I find one I bend it in the opposite direction on the heel of my hand. Once or twice is usually enough to get it straight. Hap

[buckeyebowhunter]

Mysticguido I'm shooting a longbow, It's center cut, it's not a selfbow. I'm shooting a dacron string and I'll probably shoot 125 gr. Woodsman broadheads. The arrows that I have right now are 29 inch 65-70# Easton Legacys.

[Keith361]

You can also use a piece of dowel rod with a cup hook screwed into one end to straighten your shafts.
I agree with using your hand while sighting down the shaft, but if you lay the shaft on a flat surface and roll it and still find a "high" spot you can straighten it with this method.
Just make a small mark at the spot with a pencil, then put the cup hook over that spot and gently rub the spot down.
You going to want to check the straightness again when you're done by sighting down the shaft, and make adjustments if needed.

As far as the heads go, once you get them glued onto the shafts, stand them up on the head on a flat surface and spin it. If you notice a wobble re-heat the tip, just enough to get the glue soft again, and re-adjust it's position till it spins straight. One word of caution, be very careful when re-adjusting the head, even if you haven't sharpened them yet they can still do a bunch of damage to your hand in a hurry.

Good luck and have fun!

Keith

[aromakr]

buckeye:
With your bow center cut and your arrows cut to 29" BOP I would select 70/74's and I suspect that's what your Easton shafts are also if your using the Easton charts.
As to straightening. I prefer to hand straighten, as mentioned above sight down the arrow and bend over the heal of your hand in the opposite direction. Your will find this task easier if you heat the shaft in the area of the bend first. I use a heat shrink gun, but a hot plate or electric stove works also. Just get them hot enough  so you can still handle them. I don't like the hook method, as I believe the hook will crush the wood cells and make that portion of the shaft weaker.
Good advise about just spinning the broadhead on its point.
Bob

[Molson]

70's are probably a good place to start.  Don't just cut them and taper at your length though.  Leave them long so they're a bit weak and cut down to tune.  If they end up tuning in an inch longer than you need, you can still use them and you'll know to buy 5# lighter next time.  When you retaper, scrape or sand the glue off first to keep your taper blade sharp.

If you choose to bare shaft wood, be careful!  They can develop cracks that you don't notice or can't even see from striking the target at an angle.  I recommend using O.L.'s wide broadhead on a fletched shaft technique until you get more familiar with woods.

[buckeyebowhunter]

I was gonna get prefletched arrows I was just skeptical about what length and spine I would need, you guys think it would be best to buy a taper tool and cut them and taper them myself, rather than have 3 rivers cut and taper them for me?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Yes, taper them yourself this way you can fine tune and figure out the right spine..

[buckeyebowhunter]

Tru Center Taper Tool a good choice?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have heard bad things about that one... I use the one that looks like a pencil sharpner

[buckeyebowhunter]

Where could I order it?

[buckeyebowhunter]

I just thought of another question for you guys, how do you know what diameter the arrows are? I was thinkin about gettin some of the Barta arrows from three rivers but it doesnt say what diameter they are.

[KodiakBob]

Wooden arrows are great and a lot of work to make. 3 Rivers has the pencil type taper tools, but grinding the tapers is the way to go. I have heard good things about the Tred arrows. If you want to make perfect arrows then get ready to spend some bucks, fletch jig (Bitz best), dip tubes, feathers, grain scale, grinder, Woodchuck is nice, arrow straightner, I use an AAE, torch for points. If you buy shafts and don't have a grinder pay to get the nock tapers ground. Just my two cents.

[Molson]

Get the pencil type sharpener.  Buy two.  Don't waste your money on the Tru Center.  Grinding is the best way but you're just getting started. You can always even out the tapers with sandpaper if you need to.

Not sure the diameter of the Barta arrows but typically in cedars you'll get 11/32 up to 65 or 70# and 23/64 from 60# on up.  That's not to say you can't get heavier shafts in 11/32 or lighter in 23/64.  You just need to ask.

[buckeyebowhunter]

Molson where could I order the pencil type sharpener??

[buckeyebowhunter]

Never Mind I believe I found it The BearPaw Taper tool at three rivers, Does it work for all diameter arrows? Does it do a good job for how cheap it is? And whats wrong with the True Center?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

each one is set for a size 5/16, 11/32 & 23/64... I only shoot 11/32 shafts so that is the one I got. 11/32 is the popular size out there...

[aromakr]

buckeye:
The problem with most taper tools if the "shaft guide", its a hole and unless the shaft fits snuggly in the hole it can tip to one side causing the taper to endup crooked, making a crooked nock. Thats why grinding the tapers is the most accurate, the guide is a "V" cut. The shaft will always be aligned properly, regardless of its size, and the taper is adjustable so it can be fine tuned to your nocks.
Bob