Bow arm locked below target(video added)

[mountain lion]

I think my bow arm is getting locked below target. When I come to anchor I know that my bow needs to come up but it just doesn't. My left and right are good but it just won't come up and the tip of my ring finger on my draw arm is killing me. I don't know what happened, I used to shoot really good and then something happened and now I can't hit anything. Please give me any advice you can.
 http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg628/moutainlion/EB63D396-5E02-47F9-9609-FEA26E808E53-80696-00000FB49D201497_zpsb3515cd1.mp4

[Gene R]

Sounds like it may be the beginning of target panic, be careful if it is because it can be a terrible habit to break. There are alot of listings on this problem, the guys here will help you with it and have many articles written on it. JD Kidwell has great practice steps to help break this problem.

[Bear Heart]

I am no authority on this issue but moebows method of rotational draw comes down on the target. Might be an idea.

[McDave]

By the time I come to full draw, I try to have my bow pretty much on target, so there are only micro-movements, not really consciously directed, after that.  I would have difficulty moving my bow arm after coming to full draw too.  For me, being locked in is a good thing. Maybe you just need to get on target earlier in the draw, before you lock in.

I would imagine you could solve your immediate problem by pivoting at the waist rather than trying to move your bow arm, but that kind of gross movement should also be completed by the time you reach full draw.  That's not to say that you should never make any movements after coming to full draw. In a hunting situation, you may need to move as the situation changes.  However, where the situation doesn't call for it, I think it is desirable to have everything locked down when you reach full draw, so you're shooting from a rock solid platform.

[mahantango]

Search Moebow's posts here or on Youtube. You won't find better on-line coaching. Remember to maintain the "T" - bow arm perpendicular to the spine, elevation adjustments made by bending at the waist. I start my draw with the bow arm up at the desired elavation and the arrow pointing slighty to the left of target (right-hand shooter). As the drawing elbow rotates around the arrow comes into line,push bow towards target, touch anchor, keep pulling and let it slip away. Check Terry's form clock for some great alignment tips also.

[moebow]

Lion,

Watch your video closely.  You have NO back in that shot at all!!  See how your string hand moves almost straight down when you release?? It ends up down below your collar bone.  That indicates all arm muscle and absolutely NO back.  That also causes the bow arm to want to "ride low" because you have no "balance" between bow side and string side.

Try this.  Do NOT shoot at a target, just shoot and concentrate on letting your string hand move straight back along your jaw/cheek line and ending up in the air JUST behind your ear.  To get this motion, you will have to employ more back and less arm.

Arne

[mountain lion]

Moebow, is there any advice that you can give for me to find my back. I watched your videos and ranger b videos and no matter how many videos I watch or articles I read I just can't seem to find my back I don't think, I don't know. Thank you

[moebow]

In person it would be fairly easy, by typed word, it gets hard to describe.  Are you familiar with a form master?  Learning to draw with a completely relaxed forearm and wrist isn't hard, but it is not a "natural" for most.  It takes some thought and practice.  Too many of us (myself included) started "pulling" a bow with just the arms (as it seems natural) but is the root of most shooting problems.

Try thinking as you start to draw, "relax the string forearm and wrist and just pull by rotating the string elbow around the spine."  It is a circular movement, NOT a straight line movement.

Arne

[Terry Green]

If the tip of your ring finger is killing you...you are torquing the string...I'll watch the vid now..

[Terry Green]

I'd have to see a clip from the rear and or overhead...

But...I do notice that once you come to full draw, you start raising up your drawing arm and elbow.

If you can't raise your bow arm to get on target and bring your arrows up...that's probably a mental issue....and I'm no help on that.

[tracker12]

Finding the feeling when you are using the back is a wonderful thing.  I shot recurve then compound for years and always drew with the arm and plucked the string.  I got by but always lacked that consistency that I wanted.  When I picked up the trad gear again 2 years ago I realized if I did not get the back into the picture I would never progress where I wanted to get to.  When I get the deep hook and draw with the back it all comes together.

[xtrema312]

I have the same issue some.  I shoot when not ready and or collapse on the shot if I try to make the adjustment with my arms after I am at full draw.  I can do a little adjustment, but not large ones.  I think because my arms get out of alignment and maybe out of bone on bone support.  I have to make course adjustments at the waist.  It can be hard to do unless you practice it.  I practice on a close blank bale.  Just come to full draw and practice moving around the bale.  

The best thing to do is come to full draw lined up better.  I get low when I am not lined up at the draw.  Also I have a tendency to bend a little.  I am working on not doing that.  Keeping the head up straight in line with the spine, spine square to the arms, and a rotational draw helps me a lot.  

For the pulling with the back thing try making your own form master.  It is easy to make.  Mine maybe is not the best for the release stuff, but works fine for practicing pulling.