Better than a clicker in my opinion

[LongStick64]

I've tried clickers and I think what I hate most about them is that it is a real pain getting them setup right. Well I think I stumbled on my cure. I've been getting my equipment out and working with broadheads to make sure I am ready come October. And went back to using wood arrows and I'm using Simmons TreeSharks for broadheads. What a smart looking broadhead. Well I noticed that when I got to full expansion all I need was a little back tension and I had the perfect trigger, the back of the head would tap against my hand. So when you add a little mantra, Wham what a great setup. Now I don't need to worry about clicker sounds, clicker string position, etc Sometimes you find the simpler way.

[Trumpkin the Dwarf]

[pamike]

How do you practice without broadheads?

[LongStick64]

Good question, I'll deal with that once the season is over. For now it just works out that the length of arrow I am using and the broadhead are allowing me to use this trigger. It really acts like a second anchor. My form is not entirely dependent on it.

[FerretWYO]

Be careful in a hunting situation you dont get a little stronger and pull the arrow off of the the string. I only say that because I have seen it.

[Ron Vought]

Yeah be careful...I got my finger on a Woodsman this year drawing to the back of the broadhead while trying to fight target panic. Some how the back of the broadhead just caught my finger under the rest.

I'm kind of getting use to the clicker now and it doesn't seem to get in the way. Works for both broadheads and field points. Have no problem hunting with it either. By the time the click occurs the arrow is soon on its way.

Ron

[reddogge]

Two thoughts.

Way back in my early days of bowhunting, fiberglass arrows, etc. we'd purposely cut the arrows 1/2" to 1" longer just so we wouldn't cut outselves when the adrenalin was pumping. Of course we knew nothing of arrow tuning in those days either so the arrows were cut to our draw length plus the tad extra for safety sake.

Today we know so much more about arrow tuning so I'd think tuning would trump a draw trigger arrangement when it comes to cutting arrows. For me personally the back of my broadhead doesn't come within 2.5" of my hand and I'm glad it doesn't.

[Lee Lobbestael]

I agree. I think getting well tuned arrows that are the correct length to use the broadhead to the back of your hand technique would require more set up than a clicker. Have you thought about trying O-rings on your arrows instead? You can put a mark on your arrow where they go and they will slide up your shaft on impact and would work with field points as well as broadheads. Also the arrow tuning and arrow length wouldn't be an issue.

[fnshtr]

I know someone that uses this "trigger" and he is an excellent shot. He holds the world record P&Y coues buck too. I understand that he shoots nothing but broadheads.

I agree that it presents a couple of problems... at least for me. How to shoot field points and the safety issue as some BHs are sharpened on the back of the blade (and all should be extremely sharp otherwise).

[Flingblade]

why not feather to nose?  safe, no extra equipment needed, and if you don't tell your buddies they'll never even know you're using a trigger.  Seems like a no-brainer to me.?  Am I missing something?

[Stone Knife]

Originally posted by FerretWYO:
Be careful in a hunting situation you dont get a little stronger and pull the arrow off of the the string. I only say that because I have seen it.

I was thinking the same thing

[fnshtr]

I went to a Rick Welch seminar and shot feather to nose for a while. Worked fine but a bit of difficulty in fletching and is a nuisance if you hunt with a mask on... late season.

I'm going to try Lee's idea today... "O" ring. Still have the cold (gloves) situation.

[LongStick64]

Well when I use the treeshark broadheads they are flat on the back and are wide heads, so far no nicks but I will admit that I have now focused more on a triple anchor that is working much better. Middle finger corner of mouth, index finger on a tooth and string on the side of nose.

The really cool thing about wood arrows is that you can cut them down until the target point is completely on the bow and they will fly great. With my Hill style bows if I have a situation where I bury a single bevel custom Hill broadhead into a tree branch, and then I go nuts and kick the arrow to break it off, I can glue a blunt on that shaft, draw it completely onto the shelf and it will still shoot.  I have seen this often with net length cedars, technically that shaft should be way over spine, but it flies perfect. There has to be some kind of mechanical math why it works. Same holds true for minimum length broadheads and wood arrows. The more arrow that is out in front of the bow  the more difficult it is to predict the spine calculations.  With some bows and broadhead combinations, it can put the blade just off the finger enough so that it can ride up and cut.  With a Hill style grip or anything that has the arrow touching or nearly touching the finger this is less of a threat with a two blade head. One way to train yourself to have a consistant draw, is to draw with both eyes closed until you touch. Then draw with just your aiming eye closed, until you touch. Then with the aiming eye open and the other closed, then finally with both eyes open. When you can go through these stages without any hickups, nice and smooth, you can try a nice smooth full draw shot with your broadhead. If you let go before you touched, start from the beginning.  You do not want to jerk to get it to the finger, nice and smooth all the way. This fixes the flinch and regulates your draw length with no wasted consentration. A coach of a target shooter gave me this tip about the practice draws and it worked for me and others that I have helped with TP. I also know how it erks the clicker people, but the mind set of those that shoot with a Hill style bow and Hill style form is different than those that shoot with straight draw static styles. One of the major pitfalls of the Hill shooting style is that it becomes very fluid and one can develop a short draw release, cutting arrows to that minimum needed length is one of the best tools for controlling your draw and you can be rewarded with really good arrow flight in the process.

[MISSINGINOHIO]

I just started using the sharks as a trigger also and have been up in the air about practice points but today I put a wing nut behind the point and it hits my finger exactly like the sharks do. Messes up target a little when pulling it out but so does the sharks.

[fnshtr]

It occurred to me that there is a major difference in feather to nose anchor and using the back of the BH for a "trigger".

With feather to nose ONLY... or any anchoring system (on or near the face), you can still get some collapsing or expanding with the bow arm. With the BH trigger, your DRAW LENGTH will be consistent. Anchor is still vitally important for consistent form though.

There are many individual parts of the perfect shooting system... and lots of room for personal preference...

I used to shoot a BW PSA that was 48# @28" and drew 27 1/4"... I am now shooting the bow in my signature. Until recently checking... I assumed I was still drawing 27 1/4" as I thought my form was the same (I was using the feather to nose and thumb joint behind jaw bone anchor). Upon measuring I was surprised to find my bow arm was collapsing (probably due to the higher weight of my LB)... and that my actual draw length was down to 26 1/4".

Just some "food for thought".

The main thing is that what you are doing works!

Good luck.