Critique my shooting New video

[ranger 3]

 

[reddogge]

To me you are not coming to a full draw before the release. Perhaps if you slowed down, anchored  and expanded those shoulder blades your draw might increase an inch or so.

[McDave]

Keep your bow arm up and follow through after you release the shot.  You can really see it drop in the 3rd shot.

[ranger 3]

Thanks I have working on all of that and it seems hard with the long bow. I do a lot better with my PTF, maybe because it is heavier in physical weight. The Widow is 48@28 and the Car-bow is 49@28 but feels heavier.

[DaveV]

48 lbs is a lot to handle in a longbow. It might explain why you aren't holding at full draw. It looks like you're crouching forward too. Standing up taller and expanding to full draw and then holding it before releasing should help. Problem again is the high poundage of the bow. If you have a lighter bow you can borrow, you can work on your form easier.

[DaveV]

Compare these two forms side by side. I'm not perfect by any means, but I think I'm standing straighter. I also hold as high as three seconds before releasing. If you can work holding your bow arm steady after the shot, that should help too.
   

[moebow]

ranger 3,

You've already gotten good suggestions for a start.

If you want, check out my videos for some ideas to work on.   http://www.youtube.com/user/TheMoebow1

Arne

[NBK]

Ranger, please describe your anchor.  You shoot very fast which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but I'd like to see the same shots with a pause at anchor just to see if there's any difference in draw length and bow arm reaction.

[ranger 3]

Mike, I use the tip of my middle finger in the corner of my mouth. It doesn't look like it but when it touches the arrow is gone. I have been trying to use my nuckel to increase my dl.

[ranger 3]

After practicing, any better?
   

[NBK]

Hey ranger, I'm not a coach and I will politely defer the real coaching to better shots than myself.  You shoot smooth.  How's your accuracy?  I've seen some dang good shooters with far less "perfect" form than yours.  Only input I have is to quote others in trying to keep the bow arm up a bit longer.  If you look at Terry's "magic T" you appear to have a slight forward tilt which may be contributing to the bow arm drop on release.

[DaveV]

reddogge's first reply still stands. Especially expanding your chest, transferring the load to your back and shoulder blades. You'll stand taller, draw farther, hold steadier. Your release will improve from a "static" followthrough to a more dynamic one where your string hand recoils backward.

Watch moebow's YouTube video on "Rotational Draw." It helped me a LOT.

[DaveV]

I don't want to hijack your thread, so no feedback on my form. I'll save that for a later day. But... look at the difference between yours and mine.

   

[McDave]

There's nothing wrong with your snap release, if that's the way you want to shoot.  Some really good shooters snap shoot, like Ron LeClair, Terry Green, and Howard Hill.  The problem with snap shooting is that it can develop into target panic, where you don't quite make it to full draw one time, and then it becomes a habit, and then you can't make yourself come to full draw at all.  As long as that doesn't happen to you, it should be fine.

It looks from the new video that you're not so much dropping your bow arm as the bow is recoiling downward, because after the initial recoil, you're holding it in the position it ends up.  Ideally, it wouldn't recoil downward like that, but the solution is not to try and hold it up.  The solution is to find out what's making it recoil downward.

It could be that you need a stronger bow arm side, which you could get by moving your shoulders into better alignment.  In other words, start out with your shoulders pointing at the target, and if they open up during your draw, rotate them back into alignment.  Someone can check you on this by holding an arrow on your shoulder blades when you are at full draw, and see where the arrow is pointing (should be at the target).  The arrow should touch each of your shoulder blades.  If your back is rounded, so the arrow has to rock back and forth to touch each shoulder blade, then that means that you're not getting enough of your back into the shot.  You look strong enough to hold the bow weight with your arms, but you'll shoot better if you transfer the weight to your back.

Or, as someone mentioned, you may be a little out of balance when you shoot.  Keep an equal amount of weight on each foot, a little front weighted on your toes (maybe 60/40).  Don't drop your bow arm to make a downhill shot.  For slight downhill shots, just shift your weight to your downhill foot slightly.  For more extreme downhill shots, flex your hips sideways so that your trunk is inclined forward and your weight is still balanced between your feet.  Get used to the feeling of drawing the bow on a level surface so that the arrow is parallel to the floor, as if you were going to shoot something that was as high as your shoulders.  That's the kind of alignment between your shoulders and your bow that you want to maintain for shots of any angle, up or down.

[DaveV]

What kind of answers are you looking for? With a question like "Critique my shooting" the answers could be all over the map.

What issues are you having now that you hope to correct? I see many things that *I'd* try to fix but I don't know if that's what you're looking for.

[reddogge]

DaveV is right. If you hit the target at will then no need to critique anything.

[cahaba]

Might want to work on your stance. From what I could see your stance could open up a little. But like others have said if it's working for you keep doing the same thing.