excessive feather wear

[vtbebedore]

With the cock feather pointing away from the bow at a 9o'clock position, the feather at about 4-5 o'clock is showing more signs of wear that the other 2.  This is happening on several areas.  Is it normal for it to rub on the riser a little on the way out?  I assume that is what is causing the tattered appearance on the end of the feather.

[moebow]

This is not uncommon but does usually indicate a problem.  Things to check:
1. nocking point height.
2. arrow spine.
3. finger pressure distribution on the string.
4. release technique.
5. bow arm stability.
There may be others that I'm overlooking now.

Arne

[McDave]

You didn't indicate how long you've been using the arrow before the feather began showing signs of wear. God made feathers so they flex in for a reason, which is so that we can shoot them in traditional bows with minimal deflection of the arrow.  But because they do flex in when they are shot, they will wear in time, even in the best of setups.

[vtbebedore]

I haven't been using them that long, and the other 2 feathers on the shaft seem okay.  I am still pretty new so my technique might have something to do with it.  I am also thinking about going down in spine a bit.  I have been trying the bare shaft and paper tuning, but it is hard to say if my issues are form (quite possibly) or equipment (better for my ego).

I don't know if it would help, but my set up info is:
Samick Sage recurve 40# @ 28" with a 30" draw length and 2117 aluminum with 125 grain points.  Shooting 3 under. 3 5" fletchings I fletched myself (again more potential source of error).

[McDave]

I would agree that you might be overspined. You might want to try 1916's or 2016's. I would guess a 5/8" or 3/4" nock point might work for you.

[moebow]

Ya, I'll see Dave and raise him a 1916.  I think that is what you will want.  2117s are going to work in a 60# dynamic spine range better.  That is they are too stiff for your set up.

Arne

[Al Dean]

Assuming a 31" arrow 2117s should not be that much to stiff, if the Sage has a cut past center 1/8" shelf.  If it is cut to center then you would need some point weight or weaker spine.  I would look to raise nock point a bit.

[Gatorkountry]

As you can see in this youtube video of a weak spined arrow it will ride along the side plate thru "almost" the entire shot. >  http://youtu.be/KmuzeMoQIlQ?list=UUmVczwYUfq6sQQjCmKd2q5Q

In this youtube video of a stiff spined arrow the feathers has less contact than the weak spined arrow >  http://youtu.be/MLJVsFNtYDc?list=UUmVczwYUfq6sQQjCmKd2q5Q

In this youtube video of a correctly spined arrow there is little to no contact >  http://youtu.be/b6NKc2V3ezo?list=UUmVczwYUfq6sQQjCmKd2q5Q

I would have to say in my experience your arrows are to weak.