BARE SHAFT TUNING

[Longbow58]

SHOT my 3555 Heavy Hunters with the 100 gr. insert and 125 gr. point full length and got point right, nock left. Does this tell me too weak or too stiff of a spine. Thought I read to weak and had to shorten the arrow. Shooting a LS Slammer 50# @29".

[crk]

weak

[crk]

I should have added that you can reduce point weight or shorten shaft. I would reduce point weight first to make shure you are getting the correct reaction, before cutting them.

[Longbow58]

Got some 100 and 75gr. points. Never entered  my mind to try that first. Thanks

[Longbow58]

Tried the 75 and 100 grain points not too much difference. Going to shortening the shaft by 1/2" and see what that does.

[gonefishing600]

Originally posted by Longbow58:
SHOT my 3555 Heavy Hunters with the 100 gr. insert and 125 gr. point full length and got point right, nock left. Does this tell me too weak or too stiff of a spine. Thought I read to weak and had to shorten the arrow. Shooting a LS Slammer 50# @29".

It depends on what side of the riser you shoot from. If your a RH shooter, your weak. If your a LH shooter, your stiff.

[Longbow58]

Thanks, I'm right hand and this is the first time I played around with bare shaft tuning. Appreciate the info. Need all the help I can get.

[gonefishing600]

I also have a LS Slammer. My Slammer is 64" 48@28". I shoot GT Trads 5575 cut 30.5 with 145gr fp. with the standard insert. I would say your way weak. If your wanting 225gr up front, you need to move up to 5575, or a .400 spine.

What's your draw length?

[Longbow58]

I have 5575 Trads also cut to 30" and they fly pretty nice with 50gr. brass insert. Was just trying a heavier arrow and that is what was suggested at Denton last weekend.

[Longbow58]

Just wanted to give you a heads up on how I made out. You were correct on the weak spine, so I had 20- 5575 GT Trad Hunter arrows and put 100gr. inserts in 3 of them with 125 points and flew like darts at 25 yds. Need to screw broadheads on now. Thanks again.