blank bale form video (updated videos added)

[Claym]

Well with Ohio's archery season winding down, I thought I'd take the chance to really concentrate on improving my form over the off season. I've been shooting well enough to put plenty of meat in the freezer, but I've always struggled with going on streaks. I'll shoot well for a few days/weeks/months and then things will just fall apart for a bit. I think mainly because my form wasn't correct/consistent. I've been studying Terry's clock form, as well as constantly going over Arne's videos and MBB 3. After about a week of exclusively blank bale work, it seems like things are starting to click a bit. I'm getting a more consistent jump of my bow to the target, as well as a better release & follow through. I've still got a LONG way to go, but thought I'd post a few videos and see if you all had any suggestions.

Some things I noticed from the videos:
1)While my alignment is better than it was, I still don't think I'm quite maintaining enough back tension through the shot. I notice my bow arm doing a little more collapse to the inside than I'd like on some of the shots(especially the three from the front angle).
2)I'm still grabbing the bow right as the shot goes off.
3)I've been working on the rotational draw and getting my elbow higher and then lowering it as I come to full draw, but I think I may still be pulling it upwards at full draw(not sure).

Pardon the state of my garage. My wife and I just moved into my grandparents old house and my grandfather collected books all his life. We're still working on cleaning & organizing.

Thanks!

     

   

[moebow]

Clay,  In order of your questions:

1. Two parts to that question. A)Bow arm collapse is largely due to your bow arm not being 90 degrees to your spine/torso. See how it is down?  That puts pressure on the top of the bow shoulder and that reacts when the shot goes off.  Keep the bow arm at 90 degrees and feel the solid pressure of the bow into the shoulder/body with NO strain on the bow shoulder.
B) You say you've watched my videos -- great!  Remember the segment about the string wrist OUT, NOT IN???  Cock the wrist out and see the difference it makes in relaxing the forearm AND making the back work harder.  It's all in the wrist.

2.  Self explanatory.  Lightly close your bow hand fingers to the back of the bow BEFORE you even lift to draw and then leave them there -- no fumbling or readjusting.  The bow is "caught" before you ever start the shot.

3.  LOTS of "worry" over the string arm elbow lately.  IF you are trying the rotational draw that I teach, lift higher than you are in these videos (arrow level and about nose to eye level high).  Draw with a slightly downward movement of BOTH hands (keep that wrist out!) Then lift to anchor.  One way to tell IF your elbow is at the correct height is to stop the video just as you reach anchor.  Then hold a straight edge up to the picture and align it starting on the center of pressure in your bow hand, set the straight edge to pass through the arrow nock while maintaining it on the bow hand, extend back to the elbow.  What do you see?  The arrow should be on or very near that line.  This is called the "draw force line"  and is the BEST indicator I know of to judge alignment and elbow position. Yours looks good to me using that test!

Great time to start refining the shot, have fun with it  but most importantly, stick with it and don't decide in just a couple practices to discard something.  Make a decision like that after a month or more of work.

Arne

[Claym]

Thanks for the reply Arne!

Yep, looking at it again I can definitely see my bow arm being below 90.

I'll review the string hand video again and work on making that adjustment.

Definitely having fun with it so far. I'll post another video after I've had some time to work on your suggestions.

Thanks again!

[Scott Barr]

Clay,  

Thanks for sharing your form video. And as always thanks Arne for your feedback. Getting feedback on someone's form who is already very good is especially helpful for me. Thanks to you both. Scott

[Bagman]

I practice rotational draw. It is the best advice that I have incorporated into my draw. The only thing I do different than you do in your video is I keep my head still and bring the string hand to my anchor as opposed to tilting my head down to meet the string. I'm no expert but it works for me. Arne has great advice. Thanks Arne. B

[Claym]

Thanks again for the help Arne & others. I've still got plenty to work on, but my shot is definitely feeling better. Here's a few updated videos I shot today. Had to change where the camera was for the front angle shot. It's not as overhead as the first set of videos, but hopefully it'll still work. Any advice is more than welcome.

Side view:
 

Front view:
 

Thanks again guys!

[moebow]

Clay,

Looking much better and more in control too I think.  A couple LITTLE tweaks for you to try now.

First, as you lift the bow to draw, try to keep your string arm elbow level with the arrow or even a little above it.  See how it is "drooping" below the arrow line?  Just try to keep it up.

Second and easy to see in the front view. Watch closely your string hand.  See how it moves slightly out then in during the draw? It kind of "loops" around. Try to move the hand straight in to your anchor ( out to in in a straight line); this will make you use your back even more and that would be good.

You have made a huge stride so far and these two suggestions will add to your shot IMO.

Arne

[Claym]

Thanks Arne!

I'll work on getting that elbow up. It feels like its in line when I'm drawing, but the video doesn't lie haha.

I think I follow what you're saying about the string hand but let me see if I've got it. Am I basically bringing my string in and to my face too soon in the draw cycle, and I should keep it further out and allow my elbow coming back and around to pull it in straight laterally?

[moebow]

Not too soon.  What it looks like you are doing is making the hand move OUT THEN in. The hand is moving in a circle.

From it's starting point, you want to try to bring the string hand STRAIGHT into your facial references. Think roughly a 45* angle from your string hand starting position IN to your face.  The hand does NOT move in a circular motion in the "rotational draw".  The hand moves in a straight line, the shoulder and upper arm move on the circumference of a circle.

Arne

[Claym]

Ok now I got it. Had to go back and watch your release tips and rubber band videos again to see the difference & that helped clear it up. I'll keep working on it.

Thanks a ton Arne!