Obsessed with arrow flight

[Flanzo]

Hi gang,

I'm new here and figured my first post would be a cry for help.      

As far as my background, I'm a 43 year old newbie to trad shooting. I've been doing my best over the past year and a half to learn to shoot. I'm using a 37# vintage Bear Alaskan dual-shelf and a 45# Falco Spirit longbow. I shoot split-finger with a deep-hook. I've learned that I prefer low-wrist grips, so I've gravitated to longbows.

It took about 6 months before I even attempted to tune my bow or my arrows and since then I've become a bit obsessed with it, so I need someone to talk me off the ledge because I'm terribly frustrated with the results. My tuning process starts with bare shafting, fine tuning with bare shaft through paper, then even finer tuning with fletched arrows through paper.

The issue is that everything will seem nice and tuned up one day, shooting bullet holes through paper, then the next day it all seems off (arrows stiff, nock high or low). I can tell just from the flight of my arrow and the sound of the bow if something is even slightly off and it drives me nuts. Once I see something off I check my brace height and nock and I go right back to shooting through paper. I feel like I do that more than actual shooting at a target.

Is this normal or am I just terrible at this?

I've contemplated using a thumb ring with a d-loop for a cleaner release, but I'm reluctant to add more stuff to my set-up. My wrists aren't the most flexible either, so I'm concerned that I'm torquing the hell out of the string.

[moebow]

Flanzo,

Welcome!

IF!!!!  You are getting different results from day to day, IT IS NOT YOUR "TUNE."  It is YOU.  That is the "quick" answer and one that I find is 99% true.

You don't mention the arrows you are shooting but think about it.  The arrow spine and weight doesn't change from one day to the next; NOR does the bow draw weight.  Brace height MIGHT change from one session to the next but that is too easy to check and adjust.

The only real variable (and it is a big one) is our shot execution.  How we perform from one day to the next can and does change, the equipment largely does not.

I understand your frustration but have to say that I think you are looking in the wrong place for the solution.

To check for string torque on the fingers, hold the bow VERY loosely and draw.  If you are twisting the string, the bow will want to turn in your hand too. For example, if you are right handed, and you are twisting the string, the bow will rotate like a propeller counterclockwise.  If you are indeed twisting the string AND at the same time holding the bow so tightly that it doesn't "propeller" on you you have a perfect storm that will not allow the arrow to fly well at all.  If this is true you will have to readdress your entire shot.

The more relaxed you are, the more you DO NOT interfere with the bow. Fewer muscles equals a better shot.  And yes, if you are torquing (twisting) the string you will get pretty inconsistent shots which most likely shows up as a "tuning" problem.

A suggested rule of thumb to live by is that if you see arrow reaction (flight) that indicates a tuning problem; look to your shot execution FIRST!!

Video can help you here a lot too.  Video yourself on a "good" day then when you encounter a "bad" day video again.  I'll bet you will see differences in your shot.

These are not compound bows that engineer the human out of the shot.  Trad emphasizes the human part and if that is less than optimum "goofy" things happen.

I'd suggest forgetting the paper tuning for now (it does have it's place) and concentrate on your execution.  At 10 to 20 yards YOU can see less than great arrow flight -- you don't need paper to see it.  Good luck with it and check back with a progress report from time to time.

Arne

[Flanzo]

Thanks for your reply, Arne.

I believe I learned a thing or two from your videos on youtube!

I shoot 29.75" Easton Legacy 2117's with a 145g field point out of the Falco Spirit (it has carbon in the limbs as well).

I guess the frustrating thing is when my form feels the same but the results are different. In the future, I'll break down my shot process and go through that and see if there's anything I can adjust.

[moebow]

Ahhh!  2117s are "re-bar stiff" for a 45# bow.  A stiff arrow will emphasize/exaggerate form errors.  For your 45# bow you are looking at 1816 or maybe 1916 shafts with 125 or 145 grain points.

FEELING the same is not the same as BEING the same.  Video and compare!

Arne

[Flanzo]

Well, I guess it's back to the tuning board.

Thanks again.