Author Topic: Suggestions for Cape buffalo Arrow? (Read 7674 times)

Tilzbow · « **Reply #20 on:** April 16, 2009, 11:50:00 PM »

Ozy,

Last winter I was playing around with an arrow similiar to what Jay described and I was have trouble finding shafts to fit inside of shafts when OL Adcock recommended Aerospace Composite Products and they carry a bunch of different sizes of carbon tubes that will work great.

For a gold tip I think the .254 OD would work since the ID of a GT is .256. I would order one of the .240 and one of the .254 and see which worked best. Gorilla glue will fill in the extra space of the .240. Check out this website for more info:

http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php?cat=4663

Steelhead · « **Reply #21 on:** April 17, 2009, 12:52:00 AM »

Very enlightning ideas being suggested here men.Gives me food for thought and I got plenty of time to play around with some of these ideas.It will be interesting to see how things shake out.

i will keep you in mind Jay and have my brother talk to you sometime before his hunt comes up.He may want to hook up with you and do some testing.I Pmd you before and My bro lives down the highway from you a short drive.Thanks again for your response!

Jay Campbell JD · « **Reply #22 on:** April 17, 2009, 07:13:00 AM »

Keep in mind that if you use a full length insert you will not be able to achieve the extreme FOC of 24% or so. Only by using a forward insert, approximately 1/2 of the arrow length, can you keep the dynamic and static spine high enough and the arrow front-loaded enough. Frankly, I think the Easton "Jazz" solution is a great one. I just wanted a 1000 grain arrow, and could only get that much weight, front end load, and perfect flight with carbon.

RE: the gorilla glue: I roughed the inside of the shaft with a .223 brush full length, cleaned it with alcohol, then dish soap and rinsed with water. Same for the insert package. I used an insert rod, coated it with Gorilla Glue, and swabbed the entire length of the inside shaft with glue. This is to keep the insert from breaking loose and travelling backward. I coated the insert package and put it in (remember to have the inside of the shaft wet, and the insert package wet - GG cures chemically by interaction with water, not by air-drying).

Once the package was assembled, and excess glue wiped (use gloves, cloths - GG is BAD if it gets on your hands), I put the shafts point side down with the feather ends stuck inside an upside down boot for pressure. This is enough. I never had a problem with the inserts being forced out from the GG expansion. These arrows are incredibly strong. - Jay Campbell, JD

Rick McGowan · « **Reply #23 on:** April 19, 2009, 02:41:00 PM »

I happened to be cleaning up in the mountain of paper I refer to as my office and came across the post-it note with the sizes of aluminum shafts that will fit inside a GT or similar size carbon. Jay used the 1516 "Jazz" shaft, but Easton also makes or at least made a 1512 X7 shaft. These small aluminum shafts can be really hard to find though. I never did locate any of the X7's.

michaelschwister · « **Reply #24 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:48:00 PM »

I recently purchase some surewood tapered douglas fir shafts that spine .260 with finished arrows weighing in at 740 grains with 160 grain tips. I would imagine you could get these shafts over 900 grains pretty easy by using a parallel design and woody weights, as well as heavier head.

Mike

michaelschwister · « **Reply #25 on:** April 20, 2009, 08:42:00 AM »

Quick add to the last post, for spine conversion they were ordered 110-115# spine. Also, after looking at the woody weight ad, I guess a guy could stay with tapered shafts and still get to almost 1000 grains total arrow weight.

Mike

Smallwood · « **Reply #26 on:** April 21, 2009, 04:09:00 PM »

paul brunner used diamondwood arrows i think.

BUFF · « **Reply #27 on:** April 21, 2009, 05:28:00 PM »

With help from Dr Ashby and the Trad Gang guys, I used a 29" long carbon heritage 350 shaft with a 28" long beman shaft inside of it. I added a brass insert and a 200 grain GK head. it was too stiff. I started cutting down the beman 1/2" at a time until I ended up with a 20-1/2" beman with the rest of the inside filled with 8 grain per inch weight tube. It bare shafts great and ended up 988 grains. I don't get to hunt Cape Buffalo with it until August but I have whacked a couple of hogs with it and feel very good about shooting most anything walking with it. my bow is a 83# BW recurve

Jay Campbell JD · « **Reply #28 on:** April 23, 2009, 09:28:00 AM »

Buff: The only thing you are likely not getting is high FOC. If you remove the weight tube and use (my personal preference) Gorilla Glue to fix the forward beman shaft in place, you will need more weight up front to compensate for the increased dynamic spine. Total weight should remain about the same, FOC will go up. Dr. Ashby's data suggests penetration increases dramatically, which was my experience on Buff. - Jay Campbell, JD

marlon · « **Reply #29 on:** April 27, 2009, 05:55:00 AM »

I got the 2440 cone adapter and alluminum nocks. deflection .200 used 200 grain heads weight 1200 grains. work well out of 140# and 150# bow. Marlon

rnharris · « **Reply #30 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:03:00 PM »

just curious would a fiberglass fish arrow footed full length with a larger diameter aluminum sfaft work?? this is interesting thanks Ralph

this may be weak in spine??

tradtusker · « **Reply #31 on:** April 30, 2009, 09:39:00 AM »

can't beat Rick's advice on this everything he has written is bang on!

as for "overkill" in my opinion that does not exist when it comes to hunting Buff!

Steelhead · « **Reply #32 on:** April 30, 2009, 12:48:00 PM »

Thanks again guys.This is thread is gonna be a great reference for me when I begin testing and tuning.Hopefully someone else got some input as well for selecting an arrow setup for dangerous game.

rnharris · « **Reply #33 on:** April 30, 2009, 12:57:00 PM »

still curious about the fish arrow anyone???

Steelhead · « **Reply #34 on:** April 30, 2009, 01:40:00 PM »

I know have read of someone using a fiberglass fish arrow in the past Ralph to get a heavy arrow for buffalo.I dont know if they footed it or inserted another arrow shaft inside to bring the spine up?I think another shaft was inserted into the arrow though best I can recollect.

jcar315 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 30, 2009, 05:10:00 PM »

Hey guys, I usually just lurk on the sidelines and dream of actually having to think about these dangerour game issues. I just happened to look in the "Traditional Bowhunitng Videos Paul Schafer & Co" section and there is video of Paul shooting arrows into a Cape Buffalo and he mentions he is shooting a 2117 with a 1916 inside of it. Just wanted to pass it along for what ever it is worth. Good Luck to all!!!

Steelhead · « **Reply #36 on:** April 30, 2009, 11:14:00 PM »

Thanks John!

Tilzbow · « **Reply #37 on:** May 03, 2009, 08:31:00 PM »

Steelhead,

I was in an email conversation with Markus at German Kinetics discussing my personal frustration with trying to find a shaft that's stiff enough for my long draw to load up with more than 150 grains on the front end....

Anyway through that conversation he recommended Carbon Tech Safari shafts which are .200 spine and 15.5 grains/inch. These might just do the trick for a dangerous game shaft for guys would don't have a 31" draw. If they are stiff enough to load up on the front end with 300 to 400 grains and still tune well they might get you in the ball park without complicated assembly.

Steelhead · « **Reply #38 on:** May 04, 2009, 12:17:00 AM »

sounds like another option worth looking into.Keeping the assembly relatively simple would be nice!

Thanks Tilzbow

rnharris · « **Reply #39 on:** May 04, 2009, 09:18:00 AM »

thanks maybe a fish arrow inside a 2514?

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Author Topic: Suggestions for Cape buffalo Arrow? (Read 7674 times)

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