Allan, sorry I misunderstood what you were asking.
The arrow part is pretty easy. The bow part is a lot harder.
A lot of the bow's 'minimum' would depend on the bow's efficiency. With heavy arrows, the ACS-CX at 64#@27" delivers exactly (and I mean that literally) the same fps across the chronograph as the straight-end 82#@27" longbow I've done most of the Asian buffalo testing and shooting with. With the 'right arrow setup' both bows have also reliably delivered exit wounds on trophy class bulls.
With the right arrow setup I can also get absolute certain double-lung hits on trophy class bulls, with a high percentage of thorax traversing hits, from my 70#@27" longbow; and I can exceed that bow's performance (with the same mass arrows) from a 54#@27" ACS-CX. So, the bow's draw weight won't really tell you much. Look at the verious arrow setups shown in the updates. Note their performance and the momentum they were tested at. Regardless of its measured draw weight, with YOU shooting YOUR BOW bow, if it delivers that level of momentum to a like arrow, then the outcomes will be the same.
The arrow setup that I currently use for the 82# and 64# bows (and this may change, depending on the outcomes with the Ultra EFOC testing) is the 790 grain Internally Footed EFOC ones described in the 2007 Updates, and has been used with both the Modified Grizzly and the Ashby BH. It has, to date, delivered 100% exit wounds on all buffalo, including a couple of the largest bodied bulls I've ever arrowed.
With a normal FOC arrow, using either the Grizzly, Modified Grizzly or a comparable BH, I need 840 to 900 grains on either of those bows to feel confident of a thorax-traversing hit on a trophy class bull, from all reasonable shooting angles. The weight difference results from other factors, such as whether the shaft is parallel or tapered, and such things as the ferrule to shaft-diameter ratio. Note that the lighter-weight EFOC arrows described above consistently averages more penetration than these higher mass, normal to high FOC arrow.
If you're looking for a near 'off the shelf' arrow setup, the best easy setup I've found is the Grizzly Stik Safari with an extra 100 grains in brass add-on weights back of the brass insert, and using either the 190 Grizzly or Modified Grizzly on a 125 grian steel adaptor, or with the Ashby BH. This is a higher mass arrow, well over 900 grains (at the length I use them). From either the 64# ACS-CX or the 82# straight-end longbow they also give reliable thorax-traversing penetration with a very high frequency of exit wounds.
The Safari shaft takes me only a tiny bit of tinkering with shaft-length to get them bare shafting perfectly (less effort than working up a 'start from scratch' setup). However, that might be different for your individual bow. None of my bows are very near center shot. Even on the ACS-CX I add a very thick arrow plate to make the bow less center shot. This reduced the dynamic arrow spine required to tune perfectly, allowing me to add more tip weight, for a higher amount of FOC.
Regardless of how you set your buffalo arrow up, remember those three 'must have' feature: (1) ABSOLUTE structural integrity of the arrow, tip to nock; (2) ABSOLUTE perfect arrow flight and (3) a TRULY SHARP broadhead that STAYS SHARP throughout its entire penetration (still truly sharp AFTER the shot).
Hope that answers your question better.
Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow