If thats the 62 maggie off peebay,it may be an uncut diamond is all.It did look like she could use a little nip & tuck here and there.But those 1962's are by far one of the best of the best for my money.The Mag and the Kodiak both shoot great.And the gray ??? fiberglass with the dark brazilian rosewood risers look just super.But if I were going to do the home restoration on it.I would for sure try and get as much of the original finish off as possible.Like Cam mentioned that stuff is really yellowed over the years (no UV blocker) and will make almost a green tone to the gray glass.The original finish has also oxidizied on the rosewood and makeing it look very light in color compaired to actuly fresh cut or sanded rosewood.Once you put new finish on old rose it comes back even better looking then before.I would most likely sand all of the old finish off with some 150 grit sand paper by hand and then finish up with 220-250.You can sand alot on the riser wood but not on the fiberglass and especialy NOT on the edges of the limbs.Just sand enough to remove the old finish starting near the riser and working toward the limb tips.Once you got the flats clean,now just gently sand the edges to remove the old finish.You will see and hear the difference once you have the old finish off.The fiberglass itself is very smooth once sanded.It's like glass.But for sure the more of the old finish you can get off the better the new job will look.Now wait a minute those darn original silk screens are right in the middle of what otherwise looks like a beautiful job huh??? Al has replacements for those mags.No they are not those funky water slide decals,but dry transfers printed the same as the original silk screens.PM me and I will set ya up with Alan.Pending on how nice of job ya want.I would replace them.....but thats up to you and adds to the cost.OK now you got the whole bow striped clean of the original finish...New finish can be done several ways.One you can buy a rattle can of those spray on type poly's..but it's super thin and ai'nt to tough.. minwax.. But for about 6.00 you can buy a bottle of Birchwood & Casey Gun Stock Tru Oil.It works great on wood and fiberglass and can be applied with an old rag or even your bare hand.You can put on another coat of finish every day until you get the level of finish you want.Should come out looken sweet.But first and formost,you will want to remove the coin to avoid damage while sanding around it.I take a flat head bolt,just a bit smaller in diameter then the coin??? Warm the bolt up to not red hot but to hot to touch.Set the warm bolt on the coin for about 2-3 minutes.Then stick a stick of hot melt onto the coin and let it harden up makeing sure the hot melt don't melt over onto the wood at all (it will pull some wood off)and no need to heat the hot melt as the coin is hot from the bolt heat.As the coin cools 20 minutes or more.Just give the hot melt a pull and the coin will be stuck to the hot melt (all bear coins were glued in with hot melt originaly and sometimes the heat from the bolt will make them pop right out).Now warm the coin up until it slips into a paper towel,wipe off the hot melt while to coin is still warm.Bam your set...let me know and I will tell ya how to put her back together later... Ya I know I drug that one out..I gotta lay off the coffee .. bowdoc
Topic: Bear K-Mag Refinish-along w/pics (Read 5922 times)
