Author Topic: Bear K-Mag Refinish-along w/pics (Read 7335 times)

4runr · « **Reply #20 on:** January 07, 2008, 10:55:00 PM »

I happen to like that knife....ALOT... It's shavin sharp too!!

I think that knife looks good with that bow. I hope they'll be huntin buddys of mine for years to come!!

sticshooter · « **Reply #21 on:** January 07, 2008, 10:59:00 PM »

Well did you sharpen it? ya do know that has a lifetime replacement guarantee .LOL<><

4runr · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2008, 11:27:00 PM »

It came out of the sheath that way!

Can't beat that kind of gaurantee!

hotfootTG · « **Reply #23 on:** January 09, 2008, 09:05:00 AM »

4runr, let me know if you need a set of decals for your '62 Kodiak Magnum. They're cheap @ $10 a set (upper & lower)and will make the refinish job 'pop'.

Contact me at [email protected] for info on the decals.

Al (Als Decals)

d. ward · « **Reply #24 on:** January 09, 2008, 09:15:00 AM »

4runr Al's the man...............bd

hotfootTG · « **Reply #25 on:** January 09, 2008, 09:17:00 AM »

4runr, (nice name - I drive an '01) You will need to apply the decals after you have a couple of coats of clear on the limbs, but before the final coats.

The surface in the decal areas should be nice and smooth (no ripples) and sanded with 1000 to 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper for best results.

Al (Als Decals)

Ga.boy · « **Reply #26 on:** January 09, 2008, 07:41:00 PM »

Bowdoc,

What do you do about the serial number and specs. that are written on the riser or limb? Just sand them off and rewrite them as close to original as possible before applying the final coats? This thread has gotten me fired up about trying to refinish a bow myself!

Chuck

4runr · « **Reply #27 on:** January 09, 2008, 08:59:00 PM »

Sent you an email Al. Thanks.

Chuck, that's what I was told. Do yourself a favor, don't use old True Oil. I put the first coat on last night and ended up with a mess. Wallyworld has it for lessn 5 bucks. Got a new bottle and gonna start again.

sticshooter · « **Reply #28 on:** January 09, 2008, 10:09:00 PM »

Wheres the pics?????? Ya know kenny I have a 65 Kodiak that needs a face lift.LOL<><

d. ward · « **Reply #29 on:** January 10, 2008, 05:03:00 AM »

Oh man I should have been thinking...but I was thinking you did not have any tru oil is how I forgot the mention never use old tru oil.As the dring agent has evaperated once the bottle has been opened.....Gets kinda sticky huh???? Yes I rewrite them..with gold ink I get at an art store.But there are some pretty goog gold lettering pens at walmart.They have a little bigger tip then I like but they work great for lettering bows.Put all the script back on to bow before at least the least two coats...Keep me posted boy's..........bowdoc

4runr · « **Reply #30 on:** January 10, 2008, 06:12:00 AM »

Ha ha Frank! You better see how this turns out first!

I was gonna ask about that, Bowdoc, thanks. I got er about ready to TO again.

4runr · « **Reply #31 on:** January 10, 2008, 10:15:00 PM »

Got er all sanded and a coat of NEW True Oil on her tonight. Got decals on the way and a rug and plate ordered. One little glitch in this whole thing is a small crack just where the shelf cut out is. It's vertical just above the hand when the bow is gripped. About at the edge of where you can see the I-beam joint. She may just be a wall hanger. Sure is purty with the new finish on. I'll get some pics when I get time. This work crap keeps gettin in the way!

d. ward · « **Reply #32 on:** January 11, 2008, 05:26:00 AM »

I would put some LT or super glue into that crack,After all your hard work you can't settle for no wall hanger.Can you send me a pic of the crack.bd

4runr · « **Reply #33 on:** January 11, 2008, 09:06:00 PM »

Here are some pics of the crack. It's not open enough to get super glue in it.

It goes about 1/2 inch forward into the shelf, and about 5/8" down toward the I-beam.

d. ward · « **Reply #34 on:** January 12, 2008, 06:14:00 AM »

That thing is screaming loc tite me,Kenny loc tite me.............. Super glue or loc tite will save that bows life pending you can get the glue into the crack. Keep me posted..bd

sticshooter · « **Reply #35 on:** January 13, 2008, 09:12:00 AM »

I have a question. Now please be nice cuz I don't know nuttin bout this stuff . But seems Kenny is having a tough time getting Ca glue in where it needs to be. So what if he opened the crack just a little with something to get her open just far enough to slip some glue in? <><

d. ward · « **Reply #36 on:** January 13, 2008, 10:00:00 AM »

If I were Kenny,I'd go to Riteaide or Walgreens maybe Walmart any drug store.Get a syringe or two with fine needle.I'd fill one with super glue??? Then kinda probe the crack tell I found a spot I could poke the needle in just barely.Then inject a little super glue.Really thin super glue is best and will draw itself right into the crack.One thought about wedgeing that,rosewood is brittle..bowdoc

4runr · « **Reply #37 on:** January 13, 2008, 03:01:00 PM »

Just so happens I picked up a little injector bottle at our local huge hardware store. I'm going to sharpen it to a needle point and see ifn I can get it into the crsck thata way. I thought about taking something and opening it up, but was afraid of what doc said, brittle wood opening too far

d. ward · « **Reply #38 on:** January 14, 2008, 07:45:00 AM »

Atta boy 4runr,bouts now is where I would say next time we should start from square one actuly.Had I have been reading along,but maybe the crack got posted after we got going? I usely always inject everything first.That seals them up before sanding.......bowdoc

4runr · « **Reply #39 on:** January 14, 2008, 06:10:00 PM »

You didn't miss anything doc. I didn't see the crack or post about it till I was finishing sanding.

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Author Topic: Bear K-Mag Refinish-along w/pics (Read 7335 times)

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