Bandsaw Blades

[Dean Marlow]

Guys I purchased a new Grizzly Bandsaw this summer and all I get done doing is replacing the blades. I am on my fourth blade already. They are good at replacing them but would really like to run this thing a few hours before I replace the blade. Where do you guys get your blades. P.S I want blades made in America. I had my belly full of Taiwan parts. Dean

[Buemaker]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp

I am useing their Wood Slicer blades, best I ever tried.  Bue--.

[Mark Trego]

Dean, High speed steel blades will last a lot longer than high carbon blades. DoAll who is based out of Des Plaines makes good blades.

[Dean Marlow]

Thanks guys for the info. All the blades I got from Grizzly are breaking at the welds. Dean

[Mark Trego]

Dean, When blades break at the weld, the weld wasn't annealled properly after it was welded.

[Dean Marlow]

Mark just sent DoAll an e-mail. Will see what they got to offer. The last blade Grizzly replaced for me won't even fit. It is to big. Very dissapointed with Grizzly at the moment. Dean

[aromakr]

Dean:
Another cause of blades breaking is too much tension on them and the saw not being properly tuned. The Grizzley is a great saw but they do need to be setup properly. There are several good books on doing this, save yourself alot of frustration and get one.
Bob

[Mark Trego]

Dean wheres Laprairie?, I'm just south of the Quad Cities.

[dino]

Dean,
Bob is right, there is probably too much tension on the blade.  The weld is the weakest link and will break there first.

I have several grizzly blades and they are ok, but not the best.
Timberwolf blades are some of the best that I've used.   www.timberwolfblades.com  made in NY. dino

[mmgrode]

Dean,
   I used to go through a ton of bandsaw blades till I started to loosen up the tension a bit.  In fact, I only tighten them a little ways past where they stop vibrating.  Also results in a straighter cut.  Might want to make sure your guides are spinning properly also. Good luck, Matt

[Dean Marlow]

Mark you are not to far from me. I live in West Central Illinois. Half way between Quincy and Macomb. Dean

[Dean Marlow]

Matt I tigten the blade as described in the book that they sent me. In fact they have it on the back where you are supposed to put it at. It has different settings for different blaid thickness. When you say bearing guides aren't turning I already replaced the bottom blade guides on this new machine that were already bad. I was really surprised how many of there parts are made in Taiwan on there machines. I guess they are all that way now. Dean

[aromakr]

Dean:
Which model saw do you have? The entire saw is made in Asia, but I've not had to change anything on mine and its used in my business and has been for four years, I use it daily. It sounds like a tuning problem, even more reason to buy a book on tuning the saw. The one I have I got at Barnes & Noble.
Bob

[mmgrode]

Yeah, blade guides on mine went out awefully quick.  The ones I have aren't designed very well and the bearings seized up right away. I also have found my machine's limits and try not to go beyond them. Which model are you having trouble with?  Good luck Dean, Matt

[JDinPA]

Here's a good reference and I like the blades as well.
 http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=391

[Dean Marlow]

aromakr and Matt mine is the GO555X. It has plenty of power but I can't keep it running very long with out replaceing blades ect. I think I may have found the problem with the lower bearing guides bad I hope. I have talked to there Rep and I have tuned it to his specifications. We will see in a day or two if the new bearings will make a difference. Dean

[dino]

Exact saw that I have.  Good saw, I've logged hours and hours on mine but it does go thru the bearings if they don't get lubed regularly. dino

[aromakr]

Dean:
I have the older model the GO555, mine has sealed bearings no need to lube. You might have just got a lemon. Check to see if the guide bearings are parallel to the blade or if they seem to be cocked some. That is adjustable I believe, will have to look at my saw. again, I will impress upon you to get a good tuning book, it goes through step by step with all the adjustments necessary for the saw to run its best.
Bob

[Mark Trego]

Snugging up the blade is not rocket science, but I guess I speak from being a Tool & Die Maker for 34 years. You just bring up the tension till the blade has that nice twang to it, kinda like finding the sweet spot on a bow. Put a piece of paper between the blade and the guides and saw to your hearts content. If it was welded correctly it will not break.

[Matt E]

I do as mark mentioned. The sound of the blade, when strumed lets you know when the tension is proper. Also remember to release tension when you are through using the saw. One thing that I do know is a dirty saw will cause bearings to seize.This ruins the bearing side face requireing the bearing to be turned around for the saw to perform well. The welded joint should not be the weak point in a blade, to the contrary, if welded correctly it is the strongest point.