Bear spring arm quiver

[huntnfool62]

Can any one help me with some pics with the proper installation of the double spring arm quiver ? The quiver I have has a small turn down at the extreme end, is this to "lock" the quiver on or turn away from limbs for easier installation ? seems to work either way but I'd like to have it right instead of good enough . My quiver is an eight arrow green model .
thanks
Dean

[Grant Young]

Dean- The extreme end of each springarm goes on the belly side of the limb. I install the top arm first and pull down and back on the lower arm to slip it into place. The turned up section you refer to is to aid in allowing the bracket to pass the limb edge. I'm going to look for some pictures to help you and attach them to this message if I can find them.  Grant   PS- be sure to keep the bracket well down into the fadeout section- it will add tension and make installation a little harder but it will be quieter and won't affect the limb performance. GY

[huntnfool62]

Thanks I had my top spring arm differant than that. Installed as you have yours and as stated it did make it a little difficult to put on the lower arm . Now I'm going to have to get use to having the arrows so low on the bow , or so they seem low to me! looks the same as yours but im putting mine  on a 62 kodiak 45#  I love that bow !!
Dean

[Grant Young]

The '62 is my favorite of the short riser Kodiaks, Dean. If you are using an eight arrow quiver, adjust the upper spring arm down about one third of the way from the top of the wire frame. That will pull the arrows up toward the center of the bow. The Super Kodiaks and T/Ds that I shoot had considerably longer risers and the upper spring arms also were offered in three lengths. For your bow, I'd suggest the shortes upper arm and still adjust down a little. You do that by loosening the clamps, sliding the whole arm down and retightening. If you like, you can post a pic and if your quiver has the medium or long arm I'll see if I have a shorty to send you. It really does make a difference in the performance of the overall setup- especially the noise level.  GY

[huntnfool62]

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH POSTING PIC ( GO FIGURE ?)I HAVENT FIGURED PHOTOBUCKET OUT YET ! THE ARM I HAVE IS APPROX. 8 INCHES FROM THE FIRST BEND,RIGHT BELOW THE HIGHEST CLAMP,TO THE END. IT APPEARS TO BE CENTERED ,ABOUT 2 INCHES FROM EACH FADEOUT .I'M JUST NOT USED TO THE ANGLE AND HEIGHT THAT THE ARROWS WILL BE SITTING. I HAVE A TAKEDOWN WITH THE BEAR QUIVER AND IT IS MORE IN LINE WITH THE RISER , AND I HAVE BECOME COMFORTABLE  WITH THAT , JUST TIME TO EXPERIANCE SOMETHING DIFFERANT. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
DEAN

[Frank V]

For anyone who uses these quivers, do the spring arms leave rub marks on the limbs where they touch after they have been used a few times?
Thanks Frank

[Grant Young]

Frank- Unfortunately, they sometimes do but they really amount to no more than smudges that can be polished out unless the rubber coating is worn through on the arm. The better you fit the quiver as in the lowest possible position in the fadeout are, the less likey this is and the smaller the area if it does rub. Most of the setups I see these days ride way too high on the working limb and that exacerbates the problem of rubbing as well as the noise level.  GY
PS- check out pictures of Fred's bows; he uses the optimum placement.

[Frank V]

Grant, thanks for your information. I have an older Bear Spring arm & a newer Super K, I've thought about using that old quiver. It's really in pretty good shape. I'll look at some of his pictures.
Frank

[stagetek]

They're great quivers. I take my quivers off when on stand, so they are perfect. And Grant is right on with the position vs. noise. Getting them to the thickest part of the riser is key. About where the riser is 1/2" according to the original instructions.