Bear Glas arrow?

[raghorn]

Does anyone know if this a  Bearglas arrow? Or another company?
It is a very smooth glass material, not woven, or fiberglass sheet wrapped around a mandrel. It has a wood dowel inserted about 3/4" into the front of the shaft and tapered for the broadhead. Same for the nock. The nock and fletch look like they could be Bear, but the cresting is not like in the catalogs. There is not any label, stamping, decals etc.
         
   
     

[JimB]

It doesn't look like any Bear I have seen.The Bearglas arrows should be painted full length and have aluminum adapters.

[bearmagtd]

Bear Glass was only used for two or three years before they went to just Micro-flite shafts. The first year shafts had crwon dips of different colors and yes they all had the wood plug tapers for both the point and the nock. Ron if you have had the broadhead off is it a short taper or a long one. The razorheads also came out about the same time. The shaft may have been painted hole lenght after the fact. The flecthing does not look like Bear to me, but if it is a low size number it might be a target arrow that got a broadhead later. Can you spine or size the shaft?

[raghorn]

I took the head off and it is a long taper. As I said there is no numbers, logos, decals. It spines to 45#.Razorhead came out in 1956 the Bearglas in 1957,1958,1959. Microflight showed up in 1960.
The catalog says the full length paint is an option.
Bear glas is the only shaft that seems logical. I was hoping that someone had some in original box or other documentation.
JimB- why would they have aluminum adapters?

[JimB]

Originally posted by raghorn:
I took the head off and it is a long taper. As I said there is no numbers, logos, decals. It spines to 45#.Razorhead came out in 1956 the Bearglas in 1957,1958,1959. Microflight showed up in 1960.
The catalog says the full length paint is an option.
Bear glas is the only shaft that seems logical. I was hoping that someone had some in original box or other documentation.
JimB- why would they have aluminum adapters?

Sorry,I didn't know about the wood tapers.I owned a few dozen and all were dipped full length and appeared to have aluminum tapers,front and back.

[Hobow]

Raghorn, this one has been driving me nuts as that arrow looked familiar but I couldn't put my finger on it until I found this ad from 1957...

 

 

Then I remembered the archery set that my Grandfather had bought my mom...

 

 

 

I never gave Super G a second thought, turns out it means "glass", 1957 Paul Bunyan Super G arrow.

     

Brad

[raghorn]

Wow, now that is neat.
In my first picture you can see the shadow where the plug ends. The crown dip on mine is a redish orange which didn't show up that great in the picture. The fletch shape on mine is very different from the Paul Bunyan arrow.
Crown dip is on the right and bare shaft on left.
Notice the different fletch shape and the way the nock wood plug is in the shaft. Very different from the Paul Bunyan. The nock is tight on the taper as I tried to remove it. The gap is just there.
     
 

[Hobow]

Hmmmm, I was looking at the carmel glass color and general construction more than anything.  My arrows are target arrows, 35# spine (measured) and .308" average thickness with 3 1/4" long fletching.  The wooden insert averages .265" diameter.  The model is #105. I'd imagine that they would have several models including hunting models with larger fletching to stabilize a broadhead.  

The rear tapering of a fiberglass shaft is a bad idea and I wonder if they moved away from it for durability?  

I'm curious if your nock insert is not at the proper depth to allow the nock to fit flush?  

Can you measure the diameter of the insert or diameter of the shaft outer and inner?  

Being 45# spine they should be a bit thicker.  

Do you think that the color and construction are more telling than a variable like crest and fletch shape?     :confused:  

 

[raghorn]

I agree the shaft color does appear to be the same. The fletch and nock on mine seemed to be more like what is found on Bear arrows which led me in that direction. The other major difference is the way the nock is done. The nock plug depth on mine is solid, I can't move it. I have no idea if that is the way it is suppose to be or if it just didn't get set fully. I know some guys drilled small holes in the shafts to relieve the trapped air which could push the nock or tip out as the glue set up. Maybe that is why this nock is not seated.
The other thought I'm having is...did Paul Bunyan make their own glass shafts or are they Bear Glas???

[Hobow]

That's interesting, I hadn't heard of drilling the holes to relieve pressure before but that would solve the problem.   I looked at my Bear Glas arrows and the fletching shape is similar to yours but my shafts taper at the nock end rather than having a shoulder.  My Bears are full dipped but the scratches appear to show a dark grayish color to the glass.  Glass/resin color is easy to change though if one were making shafts for other companies.  I agree with you, someone out there should have a definite answer and I hope they chime in.  In the meantime I will keep my eyes open.