Need urgent help on refinishing

[clintmeyer]

I have 2 bows that I have sanded down and am ready to put the finish on.  I am not sure of the material and method to use.  One bow is a late 50s grizzly (black glass) and the other is a green glass Kodiak Magnum with white glass on the front of the riser.  

What type of clear gloss finish should i use?  Polyurethane, Urethane, Lacquer or something else?

Can I use the spray cans that Min-Wax has?  I was thinking to use clear gloss lacquer min-wax spray can and go over the bows with many layers.  

One final question, after sanding with 100 grit over the entire bow, should I wet sand with 800 grit?  

My goal is not to create a perfectly beautiful bow, just to clean them up and get them into shooting shape.  

Thanks for your help.

Clint

[Pack animal]

A comment on spray can finish; I used Tru-oil spray one time.  the coat I sprayed after the step of 400 grit wet sanding dried looking like an orange peel...I had to back up a couple steps to clean that up.  Just throwing in a little personal experience.

[clintmeyer]

Awesome, thanks for the help!!!!  Now I know, and yes it was pre-clear coat that I was wondering about the sanding.  I have some more work to do, but it sure will be worth it when im done.

Clint

[Kituwa]

Make sure you sand WITH the grain of the wood.The wipe on tru oil is the easiest to use and is a good finish. It responds well to a final buffing too.

[clintmeyer]

What is used for the finishing buff?  Also my Home Depot did not have 320, or 400/600.  It looks like I have to go somewhere else.  

I read somewhere that it was better to put more coats on the wood parts than the fiberglass parts?  The directions here do not distinguish.  I am going with what you guys say, but just wanted to double check.

[Kituwa]

You only need a cpl coats on the fiberglass.You need to coat, sand and coat the wood till all the pours are filled.Birchwood casey makes the tru oil and they have a product called sheen for buffing but its hard to find.Stabright is a product used to bring back the gloss on fiberglass boats and it works well too.The best i have found is 3M finess used on automotive paint finishes but it comes in quart bottles and is kind of expensive.

[Widow's Son]

Go to an auto parts store to get the finer grits of sand paper. Are you guys talking about using the Min-wax wipe on poly? Didn't know you could use that on bows. Very interesting.

Ross

[450 marlin]

A 1960 Kodiak refinished with min-wax Wipe-on poly
 

[Jack Shanks]

You can also find the fine sand paper at Walmart in the automotive section.

[clintmeyer]

Thanks for the help, will be taking the spray cans back and get some wipe on Poly like you suggest.  Will grab the sandpaper and give it a go this weekend.  

My grizzly needs a grip and leather for the rests.  I found someone who does leatherwork that should be able to hook me up.  

Where did you get the leather on the rests for the Kodiak, that looks awesome!!!

[Larry m]

Or make your own!! It's very easy. 2 oz leather scrap, cut to shape, soak in water, score with straight edge, dry and glue in place.

Trap makes a killer feather rest.

[clintmeyer]

Thanks again for all the help.  I got hooked up with Mike Shaw and all is good.  

I found out my Kodiak Magnum is a 1973 because it has a strip of blue stained wooed in the riser.

[Mike Shaw]

Clint, it was a pleasure talking with you. Hope everything goes well for you.

Mike

[Mr.H]

Tip: Any of you folks that have used the wipe on Tru-Oil oil, pour a little in a wide mouth plastic container, like a plastic salsa cup.  Dilute and mix the Tru-Oil with a little mineral spirits to make the oil a little more fluid.  Then use your wet/dry sandpaper dipped in that oil and wet sand with that solution instead of water.  you would be surprised how much better that works at filling grain.  YOu can use  this technique with other oil based varnishes, too. There are a few superior marine grade spar finishes I now prefer over Tru-Oil.

[Phil Magistro]

I stopped using True Oil because it yellowed the white overlays on some bows.  I've been using auto clear coat but am looking for a finish that cures harder and faster.

[Mr.H]

Phil,
have you used any of the more modern, two part automotive clear coats?

 http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19464_7900S.pdf

This looks interesting, I have not used it, though.

 http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

And, many modern guitar manufacturers are using UV cured polyester.  Perhaps that would be a solution for top coating bows.

 http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/acoustic/features/finish

[Phil Magistro]

That SprayMax does look interesting.  

Thanks!

[Mr.H]

I didn't know fullerplast was still being produced. The Fender guitar company used a lot of extensively in the 60's

[vintage-bears]

Fullerplast can be bought still.
I purchased a gallon in the last year.
Google fullerplast and the site will come up.
Great stuff....

[warpedarrow]

You had better set aside several weekends for a good job.  I used Tru-oil on my last restore and spent about six months on it.  Tried to put a coat a day on when I had time and would lightly sand with 600 grit every three or four coats.  The poly may build (fill the pores) faster than Tru Oil so you might get it done quite a bit faster.  Just don't try to sand before the finish has cured good and hard.  Otherwise, you will ruin good sandpaper and have little tiny goo balls rolling around on your bow.