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Author Topic: Help Me Tiller #1  (Read 891 times)

Offline NorthShoreLB

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #20 on: December 16, 2007, 01:02:00 PM »
I'm 100% with Shawn, I've only started to use a tree recently,and I still only use it for the beginning tillering, I much prefer a mirror in the latest stages
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Offline Whip

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #21 on: December 16, 2007, 01:02:00 PM »
Here's a picture at partial draw.  Measured tiller shows no difference from the top to bottom limb right now.

 
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Offline NorthShoreLB

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #22 on: December 16, 2007, 01:08:00 PM »
Looks better in your hand than on the tree   :bigsmyl:
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Offline Whip

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #23 on: December 16, 2007, 09:51:00 PM »
Here is the latest progress for tonight.  Tiller is + 1/8" on the upper (left limb)  On the scale it is pulling 53# @ 28".  I normally pull to 29" on my other longbows, but I wonder if I will lose a bit on a selfbow?  

The first picture shows it drawn to about 26" (I just pulled it back and snapped a quick one Manny  ;)  )

What do you think?  I don't have much room left if I want to keep it around 50# at my draw.  It sure doesn't take much scrapping to make a change now!  I've been using it carefully so hopefully won't need much final sanding.

 

 
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Offline Whip

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2007, 09:56:00 PM »
One other question for you.  How sharp should the radius from the edge of the limb to the back be?  Right now I have it with a pretty tight radius - just ran the scraper along it to take the edge off.  Should it be more rounded than that?
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Offline mmgrode

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #25 on: December 16, 2007, 11:04:00 PM »
Looks like she's really coming along nice Joe!

Yup, it's about that time of the night...time to take the edge off   ;)   (Sorry, couldn't help myself)   :)  I just round that front edge till it's aesthetically pleasing, but not too much. You want to maintain the structural integrity of that single ring on the back as much as possible. At the same time too sharp of an edge can have a tendency to lift splinters if not taken care of.
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Online Walt Francis

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #26 on: December 16, 2007, 11:05:00 PM »
Looking good Joe!!  Might want to take a little off the bottom limb to lower any weight, though I like the look if the bottom limb better then the top one.  I agree with Manny, it looks better when you draw it then when it's on the tillering tree.
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Offline Jeremy

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #27 on: December 17, 2007, 08:04:00 AM »
Looking good!  I'd put the scraper away and start shooting it (short drawing to 28") to really let the changes set in.  You may find the tiller will change slightly (or significantly) and you'll likely lose some weight as well.  Go back and finese the tiller after 100 shots or so and you'll be good.  :D
You made the lower limb shorter, correct?  I've found the short limb tends to lose weight after 50-60 shots and I need to retiller - anyone else find this?
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Offline Shaun

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #28 on: December 17, 2007, 08:07:00 AM »
In the last picture it looks like you may have your string hand high. Try squaring across from your arrow rest point and setting a nock point about 3/8 above that point and getting a picture with an arrow. Be careful, my mind tells me to let go of the arrow and it takes effort not to shoot. If you use a known length arrow it helps tell how far you are drawing.

I do draw self bows less than glass bows. Something about a lower wrist grip and the fact that I tiller short self bows to stack about at the end of the draw.

Your bow is looking great! Very nice work on a first bow. Way to go Joe!
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Offline John Scifres

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #29 on: December 17, 2007, 10:42:00 AM »


Walt, I use either MS Paint or a freeware version of Photofiltre.  But anything will do.

Here's what I've grown fond of doing at this final tillering stage.  I've done this since I read Dean Torges' article on balance (  "Tillering the Organic Bow"  ) earlier in the year.  I like to measure the halfway point on my bows and use that as the fulcrum.  Then I like to measure the half way point on the string at full brace and use that as my pull point for the tiller tree.  Then I tweak tiller until it is perfect.  The tuning will tell you where to nock your arrow and set your arrow rest.  I have been extremely happy with the results.  It makes a bow quieter, easier to tune, and sweeter to draw and shoot.  It was the missing link in making a good, shootable selfbow for me.

Whip, you are doing a great job on this bow.

Happy Holidays!

John
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Offline Bjorn

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #30 on: December 17, 2007, 08:56:00 PM »
Nice job Whip-that is turning out to be a beauty! This thread has come at a perfect time for me. My Dryad stave will be here soon. Jeremy, you have been holding back about your extensive skills again!
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Offline BMN

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #31 on: December 19, 2007, 11:55:00 AM »
TTT. Great looking bow. I'm in the middle of my first osage selfbow as well so I've really enjoyed watching your progress. Is it finished?

Bill
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Offline onemississipp

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Re: Help Me Tiller #1
« Reply #32 on: December 19, 2007, 02:46:00 PM »
I jumped in late, but looks like it went well!!!

Nice bow you have there. The tillering tree or stick will show a different bow than one thats in the hand.

Congrats on your bow!
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