Restoration 101 - (Holy Smokes!)

[TonyW]

Flip the bow over to the throat of the grip and start working the wet leather around toward the back of the bow.

 

[TonyW]

[TonyW]

Now you have to let everything dry for a few minutes.
You will see the color change as the leather dries.

 

[TonyW]

Once everything is dry. You can reapply some more barge cement. It will take about 5 minutes for the barge to dampen and soften the leather again. Once that it’s softened up, finish your wrap and with your hand try and work out all the wrinkles and stretch the leather.

 

[TonyW]

OK you kind of get the idea and like I said I sure am not no pro. But you should end up with something looking like this.

 


Well not like this but somewhat. You can see from the pics I screwed up and measured the wrong Kodiak Special and rather then it being 3 1/4" it was more like 3 3/4". Chit happens and I will peel it off later. But you get the idea on those bow built before 1959. Tomorrow, I got to do the leather on the 1959 maple sight window.

[TonyW]

Don Ward's lesson continues ...

Notice I do not put any glue on the bow at all. If I put glue on the bow and the leather it seems to make the glue kind of thick and it does not dry evenly. Here's another little something worth mentioning. Bear’s original factory leather grips were finished off with an oil base leather protector kind of like mink oil or Neet’s Foot Oil type product and 90% of them had no leather dye but were natural veggie colored leather with the oil base sealer which darkened the leather a little. That type leather dressing only lasted about one season (you know how you got to grease your hunting boots often). That’s why most of the leather grips on bows that were carried in the field very much are wasted, the leather protector did not last long then rain and the acid from our hands got onto the leather as well.
If you want your grip to look somewhat worn out do not put any dye finish or sealers on the leather just use it as is when you’re done with installation. It'll get stained up pretty fast. For a medium tone color use an oil base product like mink oil. If you want your grip to stay fairly clean and new for a couple years use this stuff. It is a sealer and protector topcoat all in one. I will be happy to supply their phone number to anyone wanting to try it.

 

[TonyW]

And then.
   

If you give the leather a good wetting with the sealer and then put it over the heater vent that will help shrink the leather a little and tighten it right up. Please note the wrinkles are gone from the throat of the grip now.

Thank you guy's good eye Tom the twice measuring will prevent early removal of your new grip like mine. Simon both the 1959 Grizzly and Kodiak have a little pattern cut into them. I have a template for them.

[Shane Reed]

[TonyW]

Bowdoc continues his restoration of the 59 Kodiak. For owners of the new generation 59 Kodiaks, be patient. Doc Ward's lessons will teach us the proper way to install leather grips on the 59s.

 OK the maple sight window has had its final wet sanding with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Next step will be to hand polish it. If you’re wondering why I sprayed the final coat and then wet sanded was because the finish I use is just a bit to shiny right out of the spray gun so I do my final polish by hand of which I also think it makes a much nicer looking job.

 

 

[TonyW]

Ok here's the maple sight window after being wet sanded with 2000 grit wet/dry and then hand polished. You can use some type’s automotive rubbing compound to achieve the shine you want. Just test a small spot and make sure the rubbing compound does not rub off your new finish. I use my own formulated and time tested proven product to polish clean shine and protect all of my own bows and all of my customer’s bows and nope I don't sell it on TradGang because I’m not a sponsor and I would rather NOT get my post pulled for trying to make a few bucks off you guy's or for someone to think I was trying to get some free advertisement.
Please remember I’m only telling everyone how I do restorations. Again thank you all for your support.

 

 

 

Editor's note. Google "archery finish restorer"  if you are curious about the polish.

[TonyW]

And then.

 

[TonyW]

[TonyW]

[TonyW]

Don Ward continues ...
I did not mention that yes the bushing does sticks out a little. If you do not remove it and get finish into the threads of said bushing you will have one heck of a time getting the screw in. I remove the original bushing and have an old one with finish stuck to it I use to plug the hole. If any finish gets into the bushing hole you may have a problem getting the bushing back into your bow and in the worst case of all if too much finish gets in there you may end up splitting your riser screwing the bushing back in. The coins I install before spraying.

[TonyW]

Let’s see a 1959 Kodiak grip pattern some leather and a golf tee. You will have to cut this one out by hand so you will need to mark the pattern on the leather with something that is smooth on the point like a new golf tee. If you can save as much of your original grip as possible even if you have to kind of skin it off the bow to save it. It will serve as a pattern or most of your pattern anyhow. I take the old grip off and soak it in some warm water not hot just warm for about 5 minutes. Then I pass it out flat with whatever I got handy like 5 phone books a vise between two pieces of wood under a brick however I can flatten the original grip. You should let it dry overnight. Then make a complete pattern off the old grip. You may have to fill in the blanks so to speak but you get the idea.

   


Note - a good 59 template is also found here:
 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=002207

[TonyW]

 

Hope you can see this OK. Kind of scribed it onto the new leather and then cut it out.

[TonyW]

[TonyW]

Soak the new leather grip in some warm water and skive the edges. You got to let the leather dry overnight.

 

[TonyW]

If you’re going to dye your grip you can do that now while the leather is still damp. Then let it dry overnight.

 

[TonyW]

Wow that was a short night.

OK back to the barge cement on the back and let that dry until it’s just barely tacky.