Thanks to all for your replies, I really appreciate it.
Tony, Thanks. When I saw this bow, I thought "this one has good bones".
Something I've not illustrated is just how bad the scratches on the belly of the limbs are, but it's very similar to Brads, but with green glass. But again, it appears to only be the finish.
Lon , I really appreciate all the feedback. When I purchased it, I wasn't sure, but I secretly hope it's a 1973, so we would be the same age. I had recently contacted Alan Harford about replacement decals. I worried that if the finish were yellowed or there were scratches in those areas, like the one next to the word "Bear", I wouldn't be able to sand those problems away. I also worried I could never forge the writing. But after seeing your thoughts, I think I'll try to save them. If it doesn't work, at most I will be out is my labor (of love) and some urethane.
By the way, how many coats/cans does it typically take?
Brad, I bookmarked your page - thanks for posting that! The bows are very similar it seems. You've also inspired me to do a before and after photo-shoot.
Did you remove the coin or the stabilizer bushing?
And did you save your screenprints and hand-writing, or are they replacements?
And yes, I've already got the fever, bad. I started out just wanting a vintage recurve, and now I'm wanting to purchase several and restore them instead of buying ones that don't need it. lol
Reading the bowdoc restoration document, the coin removal with hot melt and a bolt makes sense, but I'm a bit lost on the bushing removal. Looking at the photo near the text, I think what it's implying, but doesn't say, is that you use something to heat the bushing (in his case an old screwdriver), but then screw in a bolt to pry it out of there. I'm not clear on that. Not sure why you need heat, not sure why you wouldn't use a bolt with the proper thread.
I really can't wait to get started on this.
Frank