Got a Kodiak Deluxe to go with my Kodiak Special Deluxe

[imbowhunt10]

Here is a copy of th e boat roller.

[imbowhunt10]

He re's another.....

[2ndTimeShooter]

Thanks DDave. I'll try a 8-9". Just looked at a BCY-X string at the 3 something archery store (what are we allowed to say, anyway?) b/c I didn't know what it is. They say it's the latest materials... does that mean it's like putting on a fast flight string? Is there a controversy about using it on old bows, or is it "safe" to use like a B50? And... the store only sells one for recurves up to 62". My KD is 64". Where to get one if I want to?

[2ndTimeShooter]

Kenny, that's brilliant. So you just pull down the top limb with your hand, right? No bow stringer I guess. Looks like it's sort of like how I used to string a bow... 45 years ago with a leg through, except this is keeping the bow straight. And 45 years ago, I never heard of a bow stringer. Wonder when they started being used.

[2ndTimeShooter]

Kenny, one more question. How do you mount the roller?

[imbowhunt10]

Shandor, yes just pull down the top limb. Very easy and safe. When I am changing the brace height on a bow I really appreciate it. Just pull down on the limb, hold pressure and adjust string. The rollers are made with a mounting hole in the end. I used a stove bolt with a nut on the other end. You could also use a screw in bolt.

[mangonboat]

Kenny, that is such a simple and brilliant solution. I'll keep a stringer handy for portable use but this will work perfectly  in my basement where I can mount it on exposed studs and the upper limb can project into the door opening. Sort of like the stringer from the late 1950's that mounted on the bumper of your car, but that invention never caught on in a big way.

[2ndTimeShooter]

Thanks again, Kenny. I ordered two already from the Big Shopping site! They are pretty inexpensive. I wonder why more people don't know about it... if this is the first time it's being posted here, it must really be unknown.

I might make a portable stand for it... with a base plate you could stand on, maybe lean it against a wall if need be, also. I can see a new product invention here for someone!

[damascusdave]

Shandor the question of which string material is appropriate for bows made before the introduction of low stretch material is one that has been discussed to death...here is the way I see it...take a look at the tips on the current Kodiak and the tips on your old Bears...then tell my why it would not be okay to use low stretch material on those old bows...my thinking is that current low stretch material had been available in 1960 the bows would have come from the factory with it...when it comes to building strings with BCY-X Chad Weaver who posts here as LBR pretty much wrote the book...just do not tell him what you are putting the string on as I think he is one of those folks who does not approve of using low stretch string material on old bows

DDave

[damascusdave]

As far as the roller stringing strategy goes it is certainly not a new idea...seems to me a number of bowyers use exactly that way to string bows

DDave

[2ndTimeShooter]

Thanks, DDave. I'll keep that reference for string upgrade time. I know about the arguments pro and con. The guy who makes my arrows makes strings (and bows) and I asked him to make a fast flight string for my Kodiak Special Deluxe, he wouldn't do it. I told him that Rick Rappe has one and says it's OK. He said he didn't know who that is but that he gave me horrible advice, he's seen bows break with those strings. But maybe he's talking about his bows, which mostly are all wood with no glass, Native American styles.

The tips on both bows do look pretty much the same, except that the Deluxes I have, have narrower tips. I've read that the main issue is not whether or not the limbs can handle the stress, but that the string can cut down through the tip. I guess if you see that starting to happen you can pad the loop or change strings.

Let me know if you ever run into any problems!

[damascusdave]

I have been shooting low stretch strings on a number of bows for at least a year...my buddy who makes selfbows even uses BCY-X strings on them...there is nothing about low stretch material that makes it more likely to damage a bow...you pair up those narrow tips with the right string and you will have a totally different level of performance...all of my 1960 bows have the small tips...not all strings need to be padded in the loops...my favourite BCY-X strings are 3 bundle and 21 or 24 strand, and they pretty much fill the string grooves

DDave

[2ndTimeShooter]

Good to know, Dave. What about Flemish fast flight strings? Have you used those? How do they compare to the BCY-X?

[warpedarrow]

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=007037

Excuse me while I go and pop some corn and get a cold drink.    

[2ndTimeShooter]

Ha Ha. Is popping corn and a cold drink related to trad bows?

[2ndTimeShooter]

Put another way, if you all want to be patient with me I appreciate it. Even though I used to shot a lot, I'm basically a beginner with modern technology AND vintage bows. I realize the questions I ask may be elementary compared with what most of you know and are interested in. I've learned a lot from you and this site.

[2ndTimeShooter]

Now here's a real issue about the Kodiak Deluxe. When I pulled off the old strike plate, even though I did it gently, the adhesive backing pulled off some of the varnish under it. At first I thought it was patches of glue left behind, but as I cleaned it up I saw there were small areas without varnish. Some spots are little patches, others are like little holes. Maybe 20-25% of the area originally covered by the strike plate. There's also a faint outline of where the plate had been... nothing missing, just a different shade. The plate looked like the original one. It was that shape and style, anyway, covering most of the window above the rest.

I rubbed the area gently with a fiberglass wax/cleaning compound. That made it smoother without removing any more varnish.

I ordered a new replica style leather plate that should be the same size.

Now the question is, or one question is, should I just put the new plate where the old one had been? Cosmetically it would probably cover the affected area. Perhaps it would also seal it and provide some protection where the varnish came off. Or should I try to apply a new coat of varnish? I've read the posts about restoration so I think I would know how to do it. But I'm open to suggestions if you think I should attempt it.

The rest of the finish beyond where the strike plate was, is in great shape.

[2ndTimeShooter]

And there's another question. What's the best way to remove an old leather plate so it doesn't remove any varnish? Has that ever happened to anyone else?

[warpedarrow]

I normally use a somewhat dull pocket knife to remove backplates and rug rests.  If some finish comes off it is no big deal to dab on a little truoil or poly to seal the spot.  I have found that it really isn't that big of a deal to repair a substantial size blemish without redoing the whole riser.  Very fine grit sandpaper (600 and up) can be used to feather down the ridge around the spot needing repair.  When you have it so smooth that you can't feel it, go ahead and dust it off and put on a few very thin coats of finish.

[warpedarrow]

"Is popping corn and a cold drink related to trad bows?"

This whole forum really doesn't fit into the mandatory trad hunting rule.  I have often wondered about the warnings to keep all posts trad hunting related.  Can we not talk about vintage target bows and be within the spirit of the rules?  I don't know.  I suppose that the moderators will be kind enough to notify us if they think things are getting away from where they want this site to focus.