Did this tuning session tell me anything?

[rybohunter]

Ok first off, I read that great link to tuning a bow, and bare shafting etc. However, it stated shooting from 15+ yds and going from the group comparison. It also said not to worry about which way the nock was pointing.

Last night I was trying to do some indoor tuning, shooting at only 10 yds. As best I could tell (& shoot), my bareshafts were impacting dead on with my fletched shafts, but entering the target nock right. The lighter in point weight I went, the more severe the angle was. I was able to correct up/down angling, and think I am on the right track as far as spine, if I continue to add some point weight.

Is there any merit to what I did, or should I try to get outside and shoot from farther away?

Thanks for the help. sorry this was long.

[Gatekeeper]

Hi Ryan

It sounds like you are doing the right thing by adding weight to the front of your arrow to correct the nock right problem.

I presume that you are shooting right handed.

[wtpops]

you are getting a good indacation of what's going on and moving in the right direction but to top it off you need to get outside for a longer shooting test

[BenBow]

Nock position in the target has more to do with your release than it does spine. Try to get the best release you can and see what happens.

[Otto]

Guys

I don't buy into the notion of ignoring nock position when bareshafting and here's why.

When I bareshaft, I do it out to 30 yds.  I start close, maybe 7-8 yds away.  As I have a long (29+) draw, I'm usually starting with a full length shaft.  That means my first shots are generally with a shaft that's too weak.  A weak spined arrow coming out of a right handed bow will dart to the right and will impact the target as such, with the point stuck to the right and nock to the left.  As you shorten the arrow, it will gradually begin to stiffen and thus straighten it's flight path and be straighter in line when it impacts the target.  As that occurs, I start to move back, first to 10, 15, 20 and finally 30 yds.  When all is well, that bareshaft will hit where I aim, and impact the target dead straight, just like a fletched shaft.  So I don't see how folks can say to ignore where the nock ends up when they are trying to tune a bareshaft to match their bow.

What Rybohunter described above is exactly what one would expect.  He removed point weight (ie... made the spine higher) which made the arrow impact even more to the left (nock right).  To fix the problem he needs a lower spine (more weight at the point or a weaker shaft).   I would argue that I could have a dead nuts perfect release but if I'm shooting shafts that are too weak, they will impact to the right of the target, nock left.  Likewise if they are too stiff, they'll impact to the left of the target, nock right.

[Gatekeeper]

Otto

I agree.

[JC]

Originally posted by Otto:
Guys

I don't buy into the notion of ignoring nock position when bareshafting and here's why.

When I bareshaft, I do it out to 30 yds.  I start close, maybe 7-8 yds away.  As I have a long (29+) draw, I'm usually starting with a full length shaft.  That means my first shots are generally with a shaft that's too weak.  A weak spined arrow coming out of a right handed bow will dart to the right and will impact the target as such, with the point stuck to the right and nock to the left.  As you shorten the arrow, it will gradually begin to stiffen and thus straighten it's flight path and be straighter in line when it impacts the target.  As that occurs, I start to move back, first to 10, 15, 20 and finally 30 yds.  When all is well, that bareshaft will hit where I aim, and impact the target dead straight, just like a fletched shaft.  So I don't see how folks can say to ignore where the nock ends up when they are trying to tune a bareshaft to match their bow.

What Rybohunter described above is exactly what one would expect.  He removed point weight (ie... made the spine higher) which made the arrow impact even more to the left (nock right).  To fix the problem he needs a lower spine (more weight at the point or a weaker shaft).   I would argue that I could have a dead nuts perfect release but if I'm shooting shafts that are too weak, they will impact to the right of the target, nock left.  Likewise if they are too stiff, they'll impact to the left of the target, nock right.

Everyone's different. No matter what shaft I shoot, weak or stiff, my bareshafts fly and land nock right...the only way I can get bareshafting to work is by ignoring the nock position. Bareshafting using O.L.'s method works best for me giving me perfect flight in the end.

[Gatekeeper]

Hi JC

What is O.L.'s method?

[Otto]

JC

So if you shoot a weak shaft, it will not only impact to the right (which we would expect) but that it will impact with the nock to the right as well???  Does this happen close up?  Far away???  Independant of distance?

Not doubting you, but that's hard to imagine as that implies an axis of rotation about the arrow that pulls the tip of the arrow away from the target while it's flying towards the target.

[Shawn Leonard]

What JC said goes for me. You have to have a very consistent material to shoot into to judge by nock position for one and for two you must have a near perfect release. I also know for sure you want a shaft that bareshafts a tad weak because when ya add a fletches and a BH it always stiffens it a tad. I like my bareshafts to group just right of my spot as when the arrow is completed it will be dead on. Shawn

[Otto]

Shawn

Agree on the consistant material.  The only thing I shoot into when bareshafting is a McKenzie target.