Trying something new, need advice and opinions (pics)

[Osagetree]

The Rowan brothers can probably testify to the fact that I am running out of good osage staves. I am so desperate I oredered an osage stave off of a auction site. First time I ever paid for an osage stave.

Anyway, what do I do?

Well, I have decided to try making a few tri lam bows. With that being said, I need some input from you guy's or gal's as I go along. If you all agree to lend some input I promise to keep you updated with my progress via pics and captions.


I got off to a start today. Keep in mind I have not read or investegated how to do this correctly. I tend to fly by the seat of my pants and learn from my mistakes and such. So any info provided will be benificial to me. Please chime in when you can.

Here is the form I started today. I plan on trying the firehose method of compressing the lams.

12" X 1 1/2" X 64" board. I used an old leaf spring to draw on a pattern. And a jig saw to cut it out.

This is my attempt at a slightly reflex deflex profile.
 

I used a power sander to smooth out the wood where I cut it with the jig saw and to smooth out the curves so they transitioned smoothly. Then I decided to drill some large holes to allow clamping it to my work bench when it is time to glue up the bow woods.

Backside of form
 

Just in case it makes some difference, I did the belly side of the form the same way. Never know, I may change my mind as to wich side I want up or down during glue up.
 

Here is a shot with a space between the two pieces to give a better view of the profile or design.
 

Drilled me some holes for the form braces and bolted them to the back side of the form.
 

Okay guy's and gal's, does this look like I am getting anywhere close to the ball park?

To bolt on the belly side of the form, I need someones advice on how much space I need between my bow wood I am going to glue up and the form. I am looking for a 1 1/2" fire hose to use with this form.

How much space between bow wood and frame to allow use of fire hose.

[hormoan]

All I can give is encouragement, no knowledge    Looks like you are on the right track though!!    

            Brent

[deertraks]

Looks good Joe. You guys that make your own bows must have a lot of patience. It looks like a lot of work and numerous steps to get to the finished bow.  

[Huntrdfk]

I can't help much here Joe, there's more that one piece of wood involved!!!!!  I will be watching with keen interest though.......


David

[horatio1226]

There is 1-1/2 inch fire hose listed in the bow building classifieds. Just search "fire hose".
Good luck even though I know you don't need it.
Brian

[Osagetree]

I went ahead and ordered a hose from Binghams, so I would have the fittings and clamps.

But Thanks!

I still would like to know an opinion on how much room to allow between the bow wood and the form to be able to have good pressure on the fire hose.

[ChristopherO]

What happened, Joe, did you cut all the osage in Lawrence County and can't make any more self bows?
This bow making gets under the skin, doesn't it.  Try hickory if you are in a pinch.
The form looks real good.  I suppose the reflex/deflex makes it smooth and fast.  Hope it turns out well.

[Keith Deters]

I wouldn't drill the other part of the form until all your stuff arrives and you can dry fit it all up.

Get it all clamped together and filled up with air where you want it, mark and drill your holes and then go for the real thing.

I like you form.  Your bow's handle looks like it will be a little setback from the fadeouts.  For shootability, I like a bit more of a forward handle.

[Osagetree]

ChrisO, I'm sure there is some osage around, but first you have to find it and a willing land owner. Then wait a year or so for curing. I'm still looking and will always love the primitive self bow over other styles.

Kieth, thanks for the advice on setting the form. My thoughts on the set back handle were that, it may act like a short overdraw and increase speed. Your probably right though about making it less shooter friendy.

I keep trying to win an auction on some wood materials, but I keep loosing out. Who should I by directly from?

[Randy Morin]

Joe, 1 1/8" of Gap is  ballpark (for area of limbs...more for fade/riser area of course).  You can experiment before you drill upper holes.  You want the hose nice and parallel (flat) to your stack of lams when inflated.  Not a circle (too much gap) or too squished and leaking over the stack (too little gap).  Also, I'm not sure that strapping will be stong enough (laterally).  Better to use some 1/8" thick steel bar (with spacers to allow for hose to stick out the sides a little).

[Shawn Leonard]

Keith makes some sweet shooitng bows!! Looks good Joe!! Shawn

[bentpole]

Man oh man Joe good luck to you Bud.I'll be watching this one for sure!

[Randy Morin]

Joe, a good way to get a decent "starting" point for your gap would be to add 3/4" to 1" to your lamb stack height.

[PaPaFrank]

Joe,
    After seeing your work posted on here for so long, I don't believe you need any advice brother!  GOOD LUCK with the new project!!

[Fletcher]

The only likely issue I see is at is the curves coming off the grip area.  If everything is thin laminations, it shouldn't be a problem, but if you are using a thick piece for the handle riser you are going to have to pre shape it to fit the form.  Even something 1/4" thick doesn't want to bend much.  Good Luck, Joe.  There will be plenty of learning curves ahead and that's part of the "fun".  

[robslifts]

lookin good!!

[Shaun]

I think the handle to limb area of your form looks too abrupt, need room for the fades. I am getting ready to try some laminated and even some fiber glass surfaced bows. The used Bingham forms I got have about 1/8" spacers under the steel straps to give the hose more room and to have space for aligning the lams and wraping the bow lam stack with plastic wrap to keep glue overflow off everything.

Binhams has good fast service and reasonable pricing. Old Master Crafters is there in Ohio but I hear they can be slow. I ordered parts from Bingham.

With an all wood laminated bow, even with bamboo backing, there is some follow from tillering. So you will end up with less R/D than the form. With glass there is almost no change from the form shape.

There you go, several pieces of advise from someone who also has zero experience. Will be watching this with interest. Good luck Joe and keep us posted.

[onemississipp]

I too have been thinking of trying a Lam bow. The only thing I worry about for you is with an all wood lam/tri lam. Is the wood trying to return to it's natural profile. To cut it short your deflex/reflex might need to be exaggerated more for it to hold once shot in.

That is just a thought I have no experience in this.

[onemississipp]

What are the 3 lams going to be?

Osage/Osage/Osage?

Osage/Black Locust/Osage?

Osage/Black Locust/Yew?

????????

[Keith Deters]

If you're going with osage, buy it from Dryad.  Mike sells real nice wood.

What are you planning for lams and backing?