Author Topic: 100# recurve (Read 8658 times)

elktalker · « **on:** January 02, 2010, 11:32:00 AM »

First of all I hope its OK to post this in the dark continent section of the forum. I thought you guys going after big safari criders might be able to help.
I'm making arrows and so far no luck even the safari sticks are to week. Next try will be a 1916 inside a 2219. I've never double shafted before, so any pointers? I want to be in the 900-1000 grn. range.

tradtusker · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2010, 11:38:00 AM »

what you hunting... Elephant?

prob going to have to double up the shafts to get the spine you need.

with double shaft and heavy heads you'l easily get over 1000grs. you could also consided double shafting with aluminium over carbon, like a thin beman mfx inside a 2016.
2016 will fit over the 300 spine beman MFX

elktalker · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2010, 11:55:00 AM »

(what you hunting... Elephant?)

not shure yet, but I'll be ready, no matter how big.

J-dog · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2010, 12:05:00 PM »

I was thinking you may be hunting freight trains? double lung em through the boilers!

Have no idea to help you out - but had to check out a 100# recurve thread!

Best of hunting,

J

hvyhitter · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2010, 12:39:00 PM »

You will probably have to try different shaft combo's to get the one that works. The easiest way I've figured would be to put all the shaft combo,s together (slip fit) to check on a spine tester and rate from weakest to stiffest. Pick your broadhead/point weight.(300 gr?) Pick a combo in the middle, make up a fletched and an unfletched arrow and see where you are in spine. Once you find one close tune like any other shafts. Most of the aluminum combos will give you a 600 to 700 raw shaft weight, add point,nock,fletch,cap/wrap,crest and you should make weight pretty easy.

BUFF · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2010, 02:53:00 PM »

I had pretty good luck with a heratage 350 shaft with a beaman flash inside of it from a 95# Longbow

Bill M. · « **Reply #6 on:** January 05, 2010, 10:32:00 AM »

arrow dynamics big game

Bow n' errors · « **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2010, 11:48:00 AM »

FWIW, I recall that Monty Brown used a 1500grn solid fiberglass bowfishing arrow for his Cape Buf hunt that was published in TBM back around 2000. I think he said he was using an 85# longbow.
Don't know if he's available via TG or email, but heavy bow shooters like he, Dr. Ashby and Denny Sturgis, both of whom I've seen posts from on TG, would probably have some good advice on this.

hybridbow hunter · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2010, 02:31:00 PM »

Hello,
you can foot with epoxy glue a gold tip entrada spine .300 inside a 2114 shaft.This gives you a strong shaft, diam. 21 and around 18.5 GPI and static spine should be around 170#. Cost around $10 to $12.
If too stiff, you can use a carbon express maxima 3D spine .340 inside the 2114 for same shaft weight but static spine around 155#. But more expensive.
A little weaker is carbon ICS 400 inside the 2114 for a 140# spine.
All these carbon shafts fit perfectly inside the 2114 and have quite the same weight.

With these custom shafts you can add up to 450+ grain in front and get high Front of Center for a 1000 gr arrow.

pokeanhope · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2010, 05:48:00 PM »

Why dont you just shoot wood shafts? Like the kind used for 100 plus pound english war bows!

tradtusker · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2010, 12:38:00 AM »

there's a big difference required in spine when shooting a bow with no shelf (English longbow) compared to the modern center cut recurves.
It would be hard to find a wooden arrow that would be stiff enough to shoot out of a 100Lb recurve from my experience.

elktalker · « **Reply #11 on:** January 14, 2010, 03:12:00 PM »

I got my 100# mojo wisper stik in the mail monday, I can only get it to 26" so far. But at that draw a 1916 in a 2219 flys real good and they will do until I can pull it back to a full draw of 28".
Thanks to all who helped in finding corect spine. The arrows I made rattle just a little, should I be gluing the shafts together?

elktalker · « **Reply #12 on:** January 14, 2010, 03:27:00 PM »

hybridbow hunter, Great info on spine. How are you figuring that out? What would the numbers be on my 1916/2219? Its cut to 29" With 200 grain tip.

tradtusker · « **Reply #13 on:** January 14, 2010, 05:18:00 PM »

lets see some pic's of your bow Darren
at that weight its probably compressing your chest a bit.
keep us updated

elktalker · « **Reply #14 on:** January 14, 2010, 05:48:00 PM »

Can do.

tradtusker · « **Reply #15 on:** January 14, 2010, 06:07:00 PM »

Darren...I want one!
and i would'nt mind one of those bows either

Great Bull! Congrats

elktalker · « **Reply #16 on:** January 14, 2010, 06:54:00 PM »

JD of wisperstik bows makes a nice bow. this one was made for marlon a fellow tradganger. it missed weight so i bought it. Marlon curently has a 150#-160# on order.

tradtusker · « **Reply #17 on:** January 14, 2010, 07:08:00 PM »

I was wondering if it was One of Marlons bows
i think he's shooting a 146lber Wisperstick right now.

Can i borrow it if i ever go hunt Elephant? :D

elktalker · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2010, 08:56:00 PM »

No problem I'll do the video.

Cmalone1 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2010, 10:44:00 PM »

How in the WORLD do you guys pull back a 100lb bow?? I can't even IMAGINE shooting something over 70lbs in a long bow or a recurve!! I would have to practice for ten years to get to that weight!! lol

Good luck on your 100lber!!

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Author Topic: 100# recurve (Read 8658 times)

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