Calvin, nice looking batch of rivercane. What state did it come out of?
You've got a good start by sorting and bundling.
I see you've selected 4 pieces to start with. First step is to plan where in the cane your arrow is gonna be. By that I mean where is the nock gonna be? How long is it going to be? How big in diameter is it going to be?
I try and pick mine so that the nock will be just above a node, that way I don't have to sinew wrap the nock for safety. After choosing where my nock goes (leaving approx 1" for the nock and 1" for the tip) I then measure off 29" total (for a 27" bop arrow)and cut them off. No sense straightening cane you won't be using. I use the gas stove for my heat source, turning on 1 burner on low and passing the cane thru the flame until I can't touch it (keep it moving)then I straighten just like an aluminum arrow, over the heel pad of my thumb. Straighten the nodes first and the area between the nodes last. I usually go through the straightening process 6 times on each shaft before I'm happy with them, but when I'm done they are as straight as any shaft I've seen.
I use a tile cutting blade for cutting in the self nocks and clean them up and shape the tips with sandpaper. If you want to make them solid, drill out the center of the cane with a 1/4" drill bit and epoxy in a piece of 1"x 1/4" dowel rod before cutting in the nocks. I've never had a problem with them "as is" and have taken deer, turkey and multiple hogs with cane shafts.
You will have to "plug" the point end especially if you want to taper for a modern head like a magnus or zwickey. If you are going to use a trade point or a flint head plugging the point end becomes an option again (but certainly recommended for strength..use a 1 1/2-2" x 1/4" plug). Be sure and sinew wrap your trade point or flint head, and taper the end of the shaft so that there is a slope where it meets the point (not an abrubt edge which could impede penetration).
As for the node I rasp mine down fairly close to shaft diameter with the smooth side of a 4 cornered rasp followed up by 100 grit sandpaper.
If you want to stain the shaft use 150 grit sandpaper on the whole shaft before staining. I also advise sanding the area where you want to glue feathers on. I have used both fletch tite and fletch tape with great success on cane and sinew wrap the fore end of the feathers.
Here are 3 cane arrow I am just finishing up as awards for Mojam. I still have to do the sinew wrapping on the flint tips and feathers, but they are basically done.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/54404608/79653855EBTvVl http://community.webshots.com/photo/54404608/79654045MtuEYd http://community.webshots.com/photo/54404608/79654356FYlslk