Author Topic: Designing the ultimate wooden bow...... (Read 24830 times)

the Ferret · « **on:** March 02, 2005, 03:28:00 PM »

Ok all you experienced selfbowyers. After making a few we all get ideas as to what would make the ultimate selfbow. Keeping in mind that the criteria for this bow is:YOU ARE BUILDING FOR YOURSELF, THE ONLY BOW YOU WILL HAVE TO HUNT WITH FOR THE NEXT 5 YEARS. In state hunts, out of state hunts, small game, big game,maybe shoot some 3D's, in whatever weather mother nature throws your way..this is it! I of course have my own ideas, but let's hear yours:

(1) material (osage, hickory, etc)
(2) ntn length
(3) handle design (rigid, semi bend, bend)
(4) handle length
(5) fade length
(6) limb design (full width to mid, past mid or straight taper from fade)
(7) limb width at fade
(8) Limb length (even length or asymetrical)
(9)Belly type (flat, slightly rounded, deep core)
(10) backing (none, sinew,rawhide,snakeskin etc)
(11)rest type (none, glued leather, bone, floppy etc)
(12)overlays (yes, no, material)
(13)profile (straight, reflex, static curve etc)
(14)finish (tung oil, tru oil, french polish, massey, thunderbird spar urethane etc)
(15)handle covering (none, leather, laced, wrapped etc)
(16) string type and material (endless,flemish, dacron, FF etc)

lets hear your ideas

Traxx · « **Reply #1 on:** March 02, 2005, 03:43:00 PM »

I haven't made enough different styles to give an oppinion.I tell ya what though,im really lookin foreward to the responses to this one.

Jeremy · « **Reply #2 on:** March 02, 2005, 03:45:00 PM »

1. Raw bamboo back, walnut core, osage belly
2. 66" ntn
3. rigid
4. 4"
5. 2" fades
6. full width to mid limb
7. 1.25"
8. asymmetrical
9. slightly rounded
10. the boo
11. glued leather or floppy
12. walnut tip overlays
13. set back in the handle, little bit o deflex, then reflex out to semi-static curves (say 6") - look at one of Jaap's bows
14. massey
15. leather
16. flemish (nothing else looks good on a bow) FF

This is the bow I've had in my mind's eye for the last 6 months, and what I've been working up to with my last couple wood lam bows.

tom sawyer · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2005, 03:48:00 PM »

Osage selfbow, 66" n/n, 4" rigid handle, 1.5" fades, 1.5" to midlimb tapering to 1/2" or less, even length limbs with a trap cross-section and fairly flat belly, floppy rest, horn overlays, straight profile, tung oil, wrapped leather handle, flemish B50. 60lb@27" or thereabouts.

A bow having a good combination of longevity and performance. Much like my best bow.

Pat B · « **Reply #4 on:** March 02, 2005, 03:51:00 PM »

OK Mickey, Here goes....
Osage, 62"-66"T/T, bulbous handle,rigid to simi-bending,4" handle, 1 1/2"-2" fades,either straight taper or full out to 6" then taper to 3/8"tips,1 3/8"-1 1/2" at fades,asymetrical (but lately I've been trying symetrical, slightly rounded belly, air backing, no arrow rest or small glued leather rest,usually overlays(bone,antler,hardwood),Tru-Oil, straight or slightly reflexed(to start with),Rattan wrap or leather handle wrap, and a B-50 Flemish string.
Just a good old stick bow!!! Pat

ps. I use the same bow for everything!

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #5 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:00:00 PM »

Osage
64"NTN
Rigid
4"
2 3/4"
Full to mid limb
1.25
Even limb length
Rounded belly
No backing
Glued on wood rest
Osage burl tip overlays
Straight limb with slight natural reflex
Massey finish
Leather handle
Flemish DF-97 string

I described my personal hunting bow. I depend on this one bow. I have one BBO and a splinter bow but only shoot the one described above.

It is the middle one in the picture at my webshots page.
http://community.webshots.com/album/99778482aRQTdN

gordonf · « **Reply #6 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:01:00 PM »

vine maple (because I haven't tried much else yet), 64" ntn, small rigid handle, 2-3" fades, full width to mid-limb, 1.75" at the fades tapering to .5" at tips, asymetrical, flat belly, no backing, golf tee rest, hardwood overlays, 1" setback & shallow reflexed tips, tru oil, elk leather, flemish and FF.

Homan · « **Reply #7 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:23:00 PM »

Osage is hard to come by out here in Calif, whereas every lumber yard seems to have a ton of Ipe, so my choice would be:

(1) ipe for indestructibility
(2) 66"
(3) semi bendy handle
(4) 4" handle
(5) 2" fades
(6) straight taper from fade
(7) 1" wide at fade
(8) even length limbs
(9) slightly rounded belly
(10) no backing (requires a good piece of ipe)
(11) glued leather rest
(12) no overlays
(13) profile is straight
(14) finish is tru oil
(15) handle covering is leather
(16) string type is dyna 97

If wood backings are allowed, I'd put a piece of hickory on the back and make life easier for myself finding the right piece of ipe. I've found this to be an accurate and durable design.

tom sawyer · « **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:30:00 PM »

Eric your fades are a little longer than average. Do you like them this way? What advantages do you see in this? Better sight window? Myself, I keep them short to give myself maximum working limb. But as I am getting the hang of tillering, I am wondering whether I would benefit from a longer fade. I already think they are more pleasing to the eye, but thats not a big deal.

John Scifres · « **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:39:00 PM »

(1) material - osage
(2) 66" NTN (I have a 27" draw)
(3) handle design: rigid
(4) handle length: 3.5"
(5) fade length: 1.5"
(6) limb design: full width to 8" past fades - approx 1/3 of working limb
(7) limb width at fade: 1.5"
(8) Limb length: top limb is 1.5" longer than bottom
(9)Belly type: rounded flat belly
(10) backing: air
(11)rest type: floppy
(12)overlays: no
(13)profile: straight, turned tips
(14)finish: polyurethane
(15)handle covering: leather wrapped
(16) string type: B-50 flemish

the Ferret · « **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:44:00 PM »

Lennie that is sort of the purpose of this excercise..when we see what others around the country are doing we can ask why, hear different theories, force us to think, discuss and learn and maybe make better wooden bows

Dano · « **Reply #11 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:51:00 PM »

(1) osage
(2) 60" ntn (26" draw)
(3) handle design, rigid
(4) handle length, 4"
(5) fade length, 2"
(6) limb design full width to mid
(7) limb width at fade, 1 1/4"
(8) Limb length, even length
(9) Belly type, slightly rounded
(10) backing, Snakeskin
(11)rest type, glued leather
(12)overlays, yes, hardwood
(13)profile, reflex
(14)finish, thunderbird
(15)handle covering, leather
(16)string type and material, flemish, FF

Rangeball · « **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2005, 04:52:00 PM »

What is Ipe?

tom sawyer · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:04:00 PM »

IPE = Industrial Product Extrusion. A polymer material that works like wood, wears like iron, and tastes like chicken.

OK not really. Its Brazilian walnut or something like that. Tropical hardwood.

wingnut · « **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:08:00 PM »

(1) material = osage
(2) ntn length = 64'
(3) handle design = rigid
(4) handle length = 4"
(5) fade length = 1.5"
(6) limb design = full width to mid
(7) limb width at fade = 1 3/8
(8) Limb length = even length
(9) Belly type = slightly rounded
(10) backing = snakeskin
(11)rest type = glued leather
(12)overlays = yes, buff horn
(13)profile = reflex
(14)finish = Catalysized Varnish
(15)handle covering = leather, laced
(16) string type and material =flemish, FF

About 55 lbs.

Mike

buffalobillpatrick · « **Reply #15 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:19:00 PM »

Rangeball, Ipe is also called: Brazillian walnut, Lapacho, & Ironwood (for decking & Black Widow bows) It's a nice dark brown. Very strong, hard & heavy. About 2 x osage on strength & hardness. About 40% heavier than osage. My supply sinks quickly in water. It sands slowly & glues fine. Don't breath the dust. Cheers

Jeff Strubberg · « **Reply #16 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:25:00 PM »

(1)Osage
(2)64" NTN
(3)Rigid handle
(4)Handle length 4"
(5)Fade length 2"
(6)1 3/8" limb width at fade
(7)full width for 10", then a straigh taper to a 3/8" nock
(8)limb length=even
(9)belly type= as flat as possible
(10)backing=none
(11)rest type=glued leather
(12)overlays=none
(14)finish=spray poly
(15)handle covering=leather wrap
(16)string type and material= B50 flemish

55-60 lbs @29"

tom sawyer · « **Reply #17 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:27:00 PM »

Mickey, exactly and this is a great idea for a thread. And I asked Eric about this, because I know he makes an excellent bow and is thoughtful in his design considerations.

Ironfist_Canada · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:39:00 PM »

Okay heres my two cents.
1. Hop Hornbeam
2. 68 NTN
3 Rigid Handle
4 5 inch
5 1 and 1/2 inches
6 Full to mid then tapering
7 1 and 3/4 inches wide
8 even
9 Flat and slightly rounded
10 No Backing
11 Cut in slightly with leather build up
12 No Overlays
13 Reflexed 3 inches from handle to tips.
14 Tru Oil
15 Leather
16 Flemish B50 dacron.

# 45 @ 27

'46 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2005, 05:56:00 PM »

(1) material - osage
(2) 66" NTN
(3) handle design: rigid
(4) handle length: 4"
(5) fade length: 1.5"
(6) limb design: full width to 8" past fades 1/3 of working limb
(7) limb width at fade: 1.5"
(8) Limb length: Equal
(9)Belly type: rounded flat belly
(10) backing: none
(11)rest type: floppy
(12)overlays: no
(13)profile: straight, slightly turned tips
(14)finish: Massey
(15)handle covering: leather wrap
(16) string type: B-50 flemish
55#@27"

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Author Topic: Designing the ultimate wooden bow...... (Read 24830 times)

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