Anatomy of a Carp BowSince I was in need of a new recurve for bowfishing, which is as good a reason as any when you’re justifying a new bow, I decided to grab my camera and try my hand at a build-a-long. I’m sure some of the more seasoned bowyers here have better ways of doing thing than what I’ve shown here, so please feel free to speak up. I’m always looking for a better way to do things.
You’ll notice that I’m not wearing eye, ear or breathing protection in any of the photos. Those things were removed for the photos only, since working a camera with all that stuff on is a royal pain in the rear. Always wear proper protection when doing woodworking. Now then…
We’ll start with the limbs. I want this bow 62” long and pulling just short of 60# at my 32” draw length. For that combination of length and weight I’ll use .040 clear fiberglass and a core consisting of two actionboo laminations, one .060 parallel and a .100 thick .002/inch taper. And since I don’t like the light color of natural actionboo, I stain my laminations with Minwax.
All limb materials are properly cleaned and laid out in the order they’ll be glued together. From bottom to top…glass, taper, wedge, parallel, glass.
Once the pieces are glued and stacked on top of each other, they’re put in the form.
The top of the form is bolted down and the fire hose is inflated to 70 psi. After 8 hours in the hotbox at 180 degrees, the limb will be properly cured.
Once the limb has cooled to room temperature, it’s removed from the press. The glue that’s squeezed out during the lamination process is very sharp. Be careless here and you’ll get cut quick and deep (been there, done that, ruined the t-shirt). Thick leather gloves are a must
The limb profile is traced from a template. A beltsander is used to reduce the limbs to proper dimensions.