RIP - Latest build-along - Hickory

[Tim Clark]

Hey, Bill - the more I look at that left fade, the more I think that what I may be seeing is the fade, itself, angling out a bit toward the camera. I just can't quite tell. If that's what it is, then I'd say you've got it nailed, quite nicely.

You do very nice work, Bill. I hope you keep at it always. Plus, you're a good (great? lol!) sport, keeping things on a light note. More to being that kind of person than meets the eye, and my hat's off to you.

..well, if I was WEARING a hat, that is.... all the same, well well done.

And no my fingers didn't stutter.  

[BillJ]

About this belly tempering... I've searched the archives and seen that some use a heat gun, and some use the red hot coals from an open fire.  I assume then that I could use a propane torch if I were careful.  My understanding from what I've read is that I would not want ot scorch the wood with the flame, but rather let it get hot enough to eventually turn color.  

I may try that on this bow just for giggles.  I also have my "Twisted Hickory" bow that I hunted with all season.  I'm a little peeved at it since I didn't get a deer, and I'm sure it's the bow's fault, so maybe I should heat it up a little.  It's taken a couple inches of set as I've shot hundreds of arrows through it.  It is finished in TruOil.  Would it be a candidate for heat tempering?

Thanks, as always for the help you guys and gals provide.

B

[NorthShoreLB]

I guess Propane would do.

I would be scared of using it however !!!

Marc says, 5 minutes at 4 inches with a heat gun at high.

I think a heat gun gives you more control, remember that to do both limbs properly takes quite a bit of time.

    Manny

[Timo]

I just emailed a story on "flaming" to Badger.I had a friend that remembered reading about it in an older "instinctive archer" mag.He looked it up and sent me a linc.

He used a propane torch.

I used a industrial heat gun.I suppose I'd not like watching the elec meter,while doing it, as these guns pull alot of amps. Be prepared to stand a while,and switch arms regularly.Also keep the gun moving,for more even heat.

[BillJ]

Timo - any chance I can get a copy of that email?

BillJ

[Timo]

I'll send it to ya Bill.

[BillJ]

Took it out of the hotbox tonight, where it had been for about 2 weeks.  Cleaned up the nocks a bit, and worked it a little on the tree.  Then I shot about a dozen arrows through it.  Felt great and shot fast - faster and harder than my other hickory bow.  I weighed it and it came in pulling 64 lbs at 28 inches, so I was pretty pleased.

Then I thought I'd put it back on the tree for one more look at the tiller.  Pulled it to 28 and in a spectacular display, it ended up like this:

   

It blew right where that little knot / crack was, so I guess there was just a weak spot in the wood there.  Is it possible, though, that having it in the hotbox for 2 weeks simply made it too dry?  

Regardless, I shall try again!  Once more into the breach!  I have some walnut I'm going to have a go with, as well as some more hickory.  I also have  an osage stave that 4nolz sent me a while back and I've been trying to get my skills up to where I feel comfortable tackling that.

So... thanks for all the help on this one guys and gals.  May she rest in peace (or is that pieces?)

Bill J

[Tim Clark]

Yeah, surprisingly, even hickory can get too dry.

Sorry about that Bill. But as she "smoked" the arrows, perhaps now she can smoke the meat?

Try again with hickory. But I'd also suggest getting going with the osage. I've just recently come into possession of some, and from the looks and feel of this osage bow from Linc, I am now about to unashamedly concede that I am in fact quite obsessed with the wood. Simply remarkable what it can be made to do, and it does so without complaint.

I'm glad to see your spirits are up and that your attitude is right. Imagine what we'd go through - or not even attempt - without the comraderie of this place?

Good for you, Bill, good for you. Any dead fish can float downstream - winners keep heading up.

[George Tsoukalas]

Bill, tough luck on that. I know you worked hard on it. I've found that boards have to be pretty flawless with no knots and few run ups when unbacked. I had a hickory board break at full draw right a tiny know and I was drawing it.There's info on my site. I'm curious as the why it was in a  hot box. Also, I think you'll find a rope and pulley a bit easier on the bow. Jawge

[BillJ]

Tim- thanks for the encouragement.

George - As the pieces of hickory helicoptered around my ears, I was remembering all the times guys  on this board have told me to go with the pulley system.  I shall definitely move that up on my priority list now.

As for the hotbox... well I thought that was the thing to do.  My last hickory board took a couple inches of set, and I thought moisture might be the problem.  I've read on this board where some guys leave their hickory bows in the hot box all the time, as hickory is just so liable to pick up moisture.  Did I misunderstand that?

There is no question the wood in the area that broke is very dry.

B

[Lost Arra]

Your skills are fine.
Get that osage stave out and make a yeller bow.

[NorthShoreLB]

Bummer !!

  Manny

[BillJ]

Hmmm... it's interesting the different perspective you have on things once you've had a night's sleep.

I looked at the pieces of this bow again this morning.  The limbs are some of my nicest work!  I hate to sacrifice them.  Plus, I've been thinking of making a takedown.  

Do you think I could salvage this bow into something like the one in this thread -    Red Oak Take Down Bow

[Lower]

Sorry to hear about the bow.
And thanks to mr.clark for my new sig.

[Tim Clark]

LOL, Lower! I'm honored!

Bill - Go for it. What have you got to lose? But, that said, maybe give that wood a rest, and give yourself one from it, for a little while. Pick up another piece that you've got nearby, hickory, black walnut, or osage, and get fresh again. Just some advice from my own experience with such things. NOT that I always follow my OWN advice, mind you...  

[George Tsoukalas]

Bill, it sometimes is tough to let go. LOL. I sometimes will lay a stave on the radiator will working on it. Around here in NH wood picking up moisture in the winter has never been a problem. Out winters seem to be just roght re moisture for bow building. How yo treat your hickory in he winter depends on where you live. i think you are correct in that the knot did the stave in. Also, the grain was poretty bad evern for hickory. IMHO. You needed a at least a fiiber or cloth backing. Silk and burlap are quick and easy. One other thing - you asked a lot from a b oarde with such poor grain. it may have survived at 45#. Jawge

[BillJ]

Thanks, George, for the help.  I'm still trying to learn what grain is good and what is bad in a board.  I actually thought that one looked pretty good, except for that little knot area.  Shows what I know, huh?  As a matter of fact I have 3 other boards cut out of that same 5/4 board.  I thought they all looked pretty good, but based on this experience, I think I'll back them.

I would like to see somebody who really understands grain as it applies to board bows do a pictorial on here giving examples of good and bad grain.  I've seen a lot of examples that are hand drawn, but I haven't seen any where there are actual examples photographed and explained.  Is there such a thing anywhere?  If not, I would be willing to post pics of various boards and invite comment from those in the know.  Perhaps it could then be assembled into something usable as a reference for the future.  Any thoughts?

B

[Tim Clark]

Start another thread with photos and questions, Bill, and hopefully folks will chime in and help not only you but all to understand. Might also get some level of debate started, but that's not such a bad thing, eh? Good idea you've got there.

[George Tsoukalas]

Bill there is a picture of a boar on Board Bows on my site that I would consider close to perfect. I look at the edge first and then check the face. Straight grain is good. jawge