3 Fletch vs 4 Fletch

[Charlie Lamb]

Gordy.... I like the 75x105. Have used the 4x90 quite a bit in the past, but just like the 75x105 better... nothing scientific, just do.

Best side clearance of the two would be the 75x105, but best all around would have to be the 4x90.

I tried the 60x120, but didn't care for it at all. Mostly the looks I guess.

[Gordy]

Thanks Charlie,  think I'll go back to the 75X105 since that's what I know best.

Was just thinking the 4X90 might be "better"  

[Rob DiStefano]

I also prefer 75x105 - just a good compromise between those other two four fletch angles.

[sagebrush]

I tried three fletch about ten years ago because I figured it would save some money. They flew ok if I did my part. My problem is Murphy's law. It seems everytime I am close up with an animal and something can go wrong it does. If I have a bad release with four fletch it straightens up much faster. That in turn can make a difference on penetration if you are close.Gary

[Big'n]

I read your post earlier Charlie and you said,"the wide angle goes against the side of the bow" on a 75x105. I'm just trying to get this straight. With that said it would appear (while looking at the arrow from behind)that the fletchings are more straight up and down than side to side? I'm sorry I don't know how to explain this. Could somebody draw me a picture. When I put the wide angle towards the side of the  bow my arrows seem to shoot to the right and a little high. If I put the wide angle up my PSA shoots where I look. I need some help (other than what my wife would have you believe). I thought I would throw in that I'm left handed and cant the bow. I'm trying to figure out where the fletchings are hitting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,DAVE

[Charlie Lamb]

Dave... I think you have it right bud. Looking from the back of the arrow, the narrow "V" of the fletching would be on top and on bottom.

The wide "V" would be on each side... like this ><

I have a feeling there is something amiss with your tuning if you need to turn the narrow side to the bow. Very possibly a nocking point that's too low.

[Rob DiStefano]

What Charlie just said ... here's a view of what those fletchings will look like when attached to yer bowstring ...

 

[Charlie Lamb]

Very good Rob! The orientation of the other pic could have given the wrong idea.
 

[zirnsak]

I think 4 fletch def stabalizes out the arrow quicker and also make the arrow look a whole lot better. Its also great to just grab an arrow and shoot without having to worry about a cock feather. I can't notice any drag dif.

[Big'n]

Thanks for ya'lls help. I figured out why my arrows were hitting right and a little high. The calf hair rest(from factory) had pulled loose on the string side of the riser and was catching the quill. The high shooting was caused by a low nock, as you suspected Charlie. So again thanks a bunch fellas. God Bless, DAVE

[SERGIO VENNERI]

Charlie , wouldn't the best feather clearance be with the 60-120 and the worst would be the 4-90 , seems to me there would be more shelf/sight window contact for the 4-90 and more feather wear . Also , maybe its my eyes , but on Rob's schematic the 75-105 and the 4-90 look the same??? I used the 60-120 for many years ( with a 1/8th counter clockwise nock turn) , but have recently changed to 75-105 , simply because it's easier to do.right now my set up is 4- 4 1/2" shield cut vanes set at 75-105 with 1/8th nock turn off an elevated brush rest with a 5/8th nock point height. Works great.

[JC]

I ain't an old timer at this so take this as a whippersnapper's opinion (who's shot a few arrows)...but out of my bows, when the arrow is tuned properly, it makes no difference how the feathers hit the shelf. Nock and or feather orientation makes no difference at all to me. I'll often rotate the nocks on my carbons to align broadheads the way I like them...the feathers rarely hit the shelf in the same place...but the arrows all land right where they are supposed to and flight is gorgeous...IF, I do my part  

[Rob DiStefano]

+1 to what JC just said, that's the gospel of arras and fletchings, IMHO.  

The advantage of 4-fletch for me is getting a pair of 4" feathers from a single full length feather, and no nock indexing to be concerned about when loading an arra on the bowstring.

[DannyBows]

I have been experimenting with 3-5.5" high back bananas and 4-4"-Fletch bananas, 75-105 and 4-90, as much helical as I can get. I'm can't tell any difference in stabilization, but the 4 fletch are quieter, hold their shape better, especially when crowded in a quiver, add the fact that I can get two from a full length feather, and I'll be sticking with them.
 I use the same chopper for both length Bananas by gluing a piece of leather shoe lace against the base of my Little Chopper with contact cenent. Then I butt the feather against that. It's a shade over 1/8" thick and shortens my  Nanner's to about 4 1/4", and shortens the height to 5/8". It creates a nicely shaped feather that flies great. The shoe lace can be peeled off if I ever decide to cut the 5.5" again.
 I've seen several comments about having to look for the cock feather with three fletch. I have been trying something I saw, I believe it was on the "Masters of the Barebow 2" video by Fred E., about shooting with the cock feather in not making any difference due to arrow bend during Paradox. It works! I can tell no difference nocking either way.

[Jeremy]

I've been fletching 60-120 based on the   Foxfire Archery Website  
Their pic of the 60-120 is quite a bit different than yours Rob.  It maximizes for shelf clearance, not sideplate clearance.

[Chad R]

Great Thread thanks for all the info.  

I have been thinking of trying 4 fletch.  With my 3 fletch I have recently had to go to cock feather in when shooting skinny carbon or 5/16" arrows.  If I don't the feather digs into my index finger.  They also seem to paper tune better this way.  I am right handed shooting RW helical feathers.  I would like the better arrow flight and broadhead stability of the 4 fletch.  Would one of these configurations help avoid the feather scratching my finger or should I switch to LW feathers to solve this?

Thanks,
Chad R

[Charlie Lamb]

Sergio... in theory the 60x120 would give better side clearance. I just don't like the looks of it... call me picky!
   

The thing about clearance of feathers is just as JC stated. Properly tuned shafts and there ain't a lick of difference between any of them.

Of course you did say you were using "vanes" and clearance could definately be an issue. I suspect the 75x105 should give you plenty... that's what I used in the days when I used an elevated rest and plastic fletch. A damn effective set up by the way!

[Charlie Lamb]

Chad... you could try rotating your nocks just a smidge to get the feather away from you finger.

I've also heard switching to left wings (for a right hand archer) will stop the problem.

[SERGIO VENNERI]

Yup ! I agree with ya Charlie if everything is tuned right and using feathers theres probably no difference. Thats the great thing about archery , many ways to things and a lot of the different ways produce the same results.

                     Sergio

[Big'n]

I would say that it's not the feather per say but the quill that is tearing you finger up Chad. I had a problem with this also when I first started shooting and Fred Asbell advised me to sand the quills of my feathers down real thin. It worked really well. Just a suggestion. Good Luck, DAVE