Leather working tools....

[T.Minish]

Ok, so after seeing the awesome looking buildalongs on here lately, I'd like some help/advice from you all.I have made lots of sheaths and such, but mine are never as professional looking as they could be.

Anyways, I was thinking, if you all could post me a list of what you would consider the basic leatherworking tools needed to make nice, professional looking knife sheaths. Please be as specific as possible.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

[elk ninja]

My tools include a small hobby knife (exacto or something similar), a bigger work knife ($1 store bargain, the kind with the replaceable razor blades), some "trauma" shears for rough cutting (EMT type scissors, just a couple bucks... did you know that Leonardo Davinci invented scissors?)... some stamps if you want to stamp images, etc into the leather.  Mine are old, 25-30 years or so... but you can pick up a new set at Tandy leather for 20-40 bucks I think, depending on what you want.  Individually they are $3-$5.  I also have a groover which was less than $10.  I use some super glue brand rubber cement type adhesive I bought at the $1 store and use a hand drill for making stitching holes.  All together I'd say you could have the equivalent for $50.

[ber643]

I'm gonna watch this thread close - I have a few tools already (exacto knives, Gouger, Edge Trimmer, Couple Needles, 2 Rolls of Waxed String, Two (somehow) Sewing Awls, Plain Awl, Stitch (4) Hole Punch, Harness/belt Leather Hole Punch, and a Wheel type Leather Cutter - holy smokes, Ive gathered more than I realized - no stamps though) Guess it is about time I quit malingering and procrastinating and get started on something - even if it's wrong.

I used to have a whole beginner's set (pretty good one too) from Tandy's that I picked up at a yard sale, for next to nothing - but then I sold it (at a neat profit) before I ever got started - that was before I got into trad archery. Dumb move!

[skullworks]

I use a utility knife to cut the leather. A standard tooling set from Tandy. A four prong punch for sewing holes. A few different texture tools from Tandy. An edger and an adjustable groover. A stylus for free hand stuff. Some blunt needles and waxed thread. I use a rubber heavy hammer but a leather one is probably better. Don't use a regular hammer because eventually it will bend the tools. I also have a hole punch set. I do my tooling with the leather against a solid brick(no holes). I have also made several print tools like deer and turkey prints. I also have two different alphabet/number sets.

[OkKeith]

Tyler,

Most of the previous posts give a good list. I have two sets of punches that I use more than most anything else (other than an exacto type knife). They are made by Tandy. Here are pictures:

 

 

One set punches a single hole, and the ends can be switched out for different size holes. The other is called a "thonging" set (it has NOTHING to do with underwear). It is changable for various size holes as well. The large tines work for whipstiching with leather lace and i use the smallest for hand stiching things.

If I could offer one piece of advice, before you punch holes, glue everything together. This helps get everything even and all the holes will always line up. I used to use super glue but because I am inherently messy it always left spots that made the leather hard and didn't look good. Now I use a glue called "Leather Weld". It is made to use on leather and works very well. Drying time is not as quick as super glue, but still very brief.

On stiched Items I always leave a little extra between the edge and the stiches so I can even the edge up on the belt sander.

OkKeith

[geno]

tandy has a sale of 50% off of the thonging set and alot of other goods also untill june 30..

[BobT]

I use a couple of things that I don't see above, the first is a cheap bench top drill press, I use this to punch holes for stitching. Drill a hole slightly larger than the needle you plan to use in a hardwood board screwed or clamped to the table then chuck a needle in the drill and use the press handle to push through the leather. I make mostly Nordic style sheathes and the center seam in the back was a real pain for me to punch until I stumbled on this trick. The other thing is an assortment of cheap spring type clamps. I use these for trial; fitting and to make good tight glue seams. I use Barge cement for glue.

Bob

[T.Minish]

Thanks for all the good info!

[Roughcountry]

A couple  things that I notice most folks don't use on their sheaths is a burnish cloth after they edge the leather and a overstich wheel after sewing. These two things will do more to make your sheaths look really finished than anything.

The overstitch wheel will also give you the exact spacing for your stiching, I recomend a # 5 for sheaths. If your unsure of what I meen let me know and I'll take a picture.

[OconeeDan]

Gum Tragacanth for smoothing the edges with a piece of antler.  Slicks it down but does not discolor it.
A wood burner can put many decorations on a sheath without a huge array of stamping tools.

[Wampus]

Nice list going, the only thing I would add is a skiver to taper the leather.  Comes in real handy for certain types of sheaths.

[ber643]

Hmmmm, I have a wood burning tool, too.

[T.Minish]

I have used a wood burner before... Couldn't ever get it as "professional" looking as stamped leather though.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed info on this thread. It is greatly appreciated!

[monterey]

Originally posted by T.Minish:
Anyways, I was thinking, if you all could post me a list of what you would consider the basic leatherworking tools needed to make nice, professional looking knife sheaths. Please be as specific as possible.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

I use a large and small leather punch.  One from Tandy and the other a small homemade from a nail and mounted to a piece of dowel, saddle stitching needles large and small, Tandy waxed sythetic thread and B-50 bowstring dacron for thread, A six tpi overstich wheel, a pair of kitchen scissors, a razor knife of the replaceable blade type and a wet sponge.

I don't have any sheath pics but these two 18th century style hunting pouches were made with only the tools above.

I never use glue any more.  If it gets on your finish work surface it screws up the project and it won't take dye, etc.  Others can get away with it but I have too many thumbs!