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Author Topic: drilling L6 steel  (Read 1136 times)

Offline dave hiltz

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drilling L6 steel
« on: June 20, 2008, 01:42:00 PM »
Does anyone have any ideas on how  and what to use to drill L6 steel?  I am have the works of hell to drill holes in it!  I have made a few small knifes out of it and had a really hard time drilling it.  Any help will help me save the hair I have left on my head.  Thanks Dave.

Offline skullworks

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  • Posts: 2012
Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2008, 01:52:00 PM »
Is it annealed/soft? If not you will have to use carbide bits and go slow. I'm sure Lin or KBA can give more advice on it.
'cuz deer huntin' ain't catch & release!

Offline dave hiltz

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2008, 02:06:00 PM »
It is a big saw blade from a mill so I think that it is NOT annealed.  Where can I get carbide bits?

Offline sticshooter

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2008, 02:29:00 PM »
I sent you a reply back to your PM. SLOW SLOW witha cobalt bit. That is if ya don't heat it up and let it cool SLOW!<><
The Church of God is an anvil that has worn out many hammers.

"Walk softly..and carry a sharp   Stic."
TGMM

Offline skullworks

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2008, 02:40:00 PM »
Uh and sticshooter too! LOL! There are other too! Ooops!
'cuz deer huntin' ain't catch & release!

Offline kbaknife

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2008, 03:41:00 PM »
I would  soften the entire piece, grind, drill, file, whatever, and then harden and temper.
If you are going to do any grinding with power tools on the cutting area, more than likely, you will ruin the hardness/temper anyway.
If you want to just soften the handle area, you might be successful doing this:
In a dark room, suspend the working portion of theblade in water. Take an aceteleyne torch and draw the tang area until it JUST STARTS GETTING A LITTLE RED COLOR, and then stop. Let it cool black. Repeat. Repeat.
Try drilling.
I do that to completely hardened 5160 and W1/2 and can drill, tap, whatever I want.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

Offline dave hiltz

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2008, 05:10:00 PM »
thanks guys, Lin had given me instuctions a while ago but it seems like eack piece of the L-6 steel is different?  I managed to get holes drilled in three blades just now, so maybe I might have it licked?  Thanks so much for the input.  Dave.

Offline Lin Rhea

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Re: drilling L6 steel
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2008, 08:20:00 PM »
Dave,
       The difference may be in the way they hardened the saw blade. They may have somewhat differentially heat treated it. It may be softer the closer you get to the arbor hole. The only way to know is test it.
     I'll second what Karl says. Even if you decide not to forge, just having the ability to manipulate the heat treat is a handy thing. We'll all help.  :campfire:  
                               Lin
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

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