Plane steel questions.

[razorback]

I am thinking of using a plane steel to make a couple of knives. My guess is it should make good blades. My plan is to bring it to non magnetic and let cool slowly. This will anneal it, wont it? Then cut out the shape I want grind to desired final shape. I will then bring up to temp and quench. What color should I get it to and what is the best, cheap and easily accesable, quenching medium. After I quench it what are the next steps. Do I put it in the oven at 400 for 2 hours, twice.
First knives so all comments are greatly appreciated.

[razorback]

Another question    Will leaving the steel in the coal bed of a well stoked fire place and letting it cool with the fire, get it to temp and soft enough to properly work?

[Steve Nuckels]

I'm no expert, but your first post sums it up, if you can not get "proper" quench oil hydrolic oil or motor oil will work.

Your second post, I think it will get too hot and may warp.  Bring the steel just past non-magnetic let cool to "Black" heat X 2. Then bring up to non-magnitic a third time then let cool overnight in hard wood ash or vermiculite.

Steve
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Potomac Forge
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IN GOD WE TRUST

[kbaknife]

I don't want to offer you any discouragement, but you said something that is VERY accurate "My guess is it should make good blades."
The key word being "guess".
Here's my guess - that steel is D2.
Historically, many planer blades have been made of D2.
D2 is what can almost be considered stainless steel, as it has an enormously high chromium content.
Or maybe even A2. Which is not all that traditional of a forging steel.
It's also not advisable to slow cool any steel above 0.84% carbon AFTER you have taken it above 1415 - non-magnetic.
If you can control your heat somewhat and just bring it up to dull red without going non-magnetic and THEN slow cool, you would be better off.
Now, so much for the technical stuff - have fun.
If they're free, you have absolutely nothing to loose.
But, if you're thinking about spending money, just go ahead and by some forging steel.
Most proper quench oils are primarily mineral oil with the addition of proprietary additives to inhibit vapor barriers and transition phases, etc., so short of getting 'real' oil, try your luck at pure vet grade mineral oil which you can find at most any farm-type store.
You'll still probably have more fun and end up with a cool knife than you could buy.

[razorback]

Thanks guys. The steel has "tool steel" stamped on it, don't know if that means much. I am planning on trying to get 2 little capers out of it. But as you said above, it is free, fun and may get a cool knife out of it.

[razorback]

Karl, thanks for the info. What are the problems I might have if it is D2 or A2. Can i treat it like any file or saw blade, knife would be done. that is what I was thinking when I chose to do this knife. Just anneal it, shape it, harden/temper it, put a handle on it, finish it, get razor shape and finally cut myself. That last one is what I seem to always do with sharp stuff anyway  

[ALW]

Isn't D2 steel air hardening steel?  I was looking through a sheet I had on heat treating different steels and D2 steel looked like it was a very precise treatment.

I have a bunch of planer blades as well but haven't done anything with them yet because I was told they were probably D2 steel and the treatment was tricky.  

Good luck.

Aaron

[razorback]

Well I put it in the fire place got it hot and then let it cool over night in a pile of ash. It warped a very small amount, which I am not worried about. It got plenty soft to work with, so I cut it in half and have started grinding out a blade on one of the halfs. Just going for a 3 1/2" utility blade with simple wood handle. Will post pictures of my progress later, when I get my camera back from my daughter.