Handle Construction

[Lin Rhea]

On the other thread we talked about starting one on handle construction. What I think we should do is look at some examples of different types, but not get hung up on technical names so much.

The main thing is that one understands the general way in which a certain handle construction as well as choice of materials will assist in designing the desirable qualities into the knife. This can be done with function in mind. In other words, balance (literal weight distribution), strength, etc.  It can also work to just make the knife look more pleasing visually by providing a visual balance between the blade and the handle. OK that's enough of that.

Most of us are familiar with what is called "full tang construction". I dont have many examples of those. I just never made many. So I'll start by showing a "Through Tang" knife. The tang has been extended through the handle and a butt cap and attached to a fastener, in this case a ringed finial. Being a small knife where strength is not as much of a consideration as looks, I was wanting the maple to be uncluttered and still have a place to attach a lanyard.

 

I know some of you make a knife that is similarly constructed, so let's see em. Then we can go to another if you like. Lin

[kbaknife]

Lin, beautiful example.
That is, without a doubt, my preferred method of assembly, with or without a butt cap.
The tightening of the finial "pulls" everything toward the guard shoulders and renders it all integral to itself.
I think that adds to the strength of the knife.
It also leaves no "compromises" to the knife handle, such as pins or bolts which can propagate cracks, and/or environmental "leaks".
On larger knives, one can add thicker butt caps to add butt weight when center balance is important.
The combinations of the pieces are limitless and also allows individual creation of the pieces independently of the knife.
Good topic.

[Jeremy]

Gorgeous knife Lin!

Here's a simple hidden tang or stick tang

 

The tang extends into a mortise in the handle, but does not go all the way through.  Usually secured with a pin or two for an added mechanical connection.

[Steve Nuckels]

Hidden tang drop point.


 

Above, three of my favorite bladesmiths on this forum.

Steve
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Potomac Forge
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IN GOD WE TRUST

[OconeeDan]

WOW, I am outclassed here.  But I'll play...
These are full tang knives, one tapered and one not tapered.
Tapered tang reduces weight and improves balance.  But untapered tang was needed because of the thin carbon fiber scales on the other knife, tapered tang would have been too thin in the rear.
 
Brass bolsters make a knife handle heavy, and I normally do not do that.  But, when using a fragile material like mammoth tooth, it allows it to be a working knife and not just a looker.  I dropped a knife like this on concrete, only a ding in the brass.  Without the double bolsters, I would have had cracked or crumbled mammoth tooth (and it is not cheap).
 

[Jeremy]

I'm not a huge fan of full tang knives, but they do have their place:
 

 

[Lin Rhea]

Those are some good examples. Dan, I like your reasoning. That's exactly what I was talking about. That said, I have avoided Mammoth Tooth myself, because of it's brittle, but you got that covered with the bolsters. Good job.

A note about the weight of the bolsters. You can drill lightening holes on the inside of the bolsters where they dont show before you mount them up. You probably already do that though. Lin

[Jeremy]

Usually for hidden tang knives I drill the mortise undersized and fit with small files and a small planemaker's float (where the He** did I put that thing anyway?!), but for this one the mortise wasn't drilled.  

 
 

The mortise is formed between the center lam and the scales. This is also how you would do a coke-handle bowie with a big double guard, but instead of a wood the center section would be steel.  You'll have people wondering how you got the guard on the knife with all the steel below it! LOL!

On full tang knives you can also drill out the tang to reduce weight, making it look like a skeleton.  That also aids in the epoxy holding the whole thing together.

[kbaknife]

Handle assembly ala Andersen Forge:

 

 

 

[Montauks]

great post I admire them all    

[mater]

You guys are really artist. Dan, I love those hump back drop points you make. Im going to have one of them some day.  Mark

[Lin Rhea]

OK here's another type, the frame handle. Jerremy, I believe this is what you were refering to. This type will alow the maker to have options as to weight distribution, limited scale thickness, texture, etc. It's almost unlimited.

The tang is a stick tang going into a "U" shaped frame that surrounds the tang and to which the scales attach. The maker has to be aware if the tendency to get the handles way too heavy with all the metal in it. Lightening holes are necessary to not have it feel like a boat anchor. That will take planning. This is where a good drawing helps. Here is a finished knife patterned after an 1840's W&S Butcher knife.

 

Here is the patterns I used for the blade and frame. Notice the drawing.

The frame handle in this knife is mechanically bound to the blade. Can you tell me how?    Lin
 

[JohnHV]

Ok, I'll guess.

Is the blade soldered to the steel spacer?  Did you also solder the butt cap to the spacer?

[Lin Rhea]

Nope, good guess. No solder at all in this knife. Lin

[razorback]

Key holes in the guard that the frame goes into. locking into place with the scales.

[KHALVERSON]

lin
is that u frame a press fit over the tang
kevin

[Lin Rhea]

Nope, but that's an interesting thought. I did get the fit pretty close to help line up the frame with the blade's center. Lin

[Doug Campbell]

Hey Lin, still in HI but I'm going to guess the pins holding that name plate go thru into the tang... I love frame handles        

Also I asked Craig if he was the one who got your hammer but it was another Craig I've yet to meet...

[Wampus]

Or maybe a hidden pin/bolt behind the plate?

[Lin Rhea]

I'm glad your back Doug. I hope yall had a great time.

      Close Doug, but Wampus hit the nail on the head. A pin through the handle and tang. The escutcheon plates are held on by the small pins. I domed the heads in another plate and poked them out from the back and roughed them up and epoxied them into the handle. Lin