Question Added: Couple of New Ones

[4est trekker]

Here's a couple I finished recently.  They both are from the same reclaimed saw steel.  I contacted the company who manufactured it and, after some long holds on the phone, they were able to tell me what steel the blade was made from.  It sure paid off to figure out what I was actually working with.  

Neither blade is finished particularly well, but I kind of like the "working man's patina" and sanding marks. (Or would that be "lazy man's patina?") Don't judge a fellow too, hard, alright?          The large one has flamed maple and rosewood scales with peened copper tube and homemade mosaic pins.  The smaller one has horn scales.  Both are lightly etched in vinegar.  

The larger one is a gift for a kid at the school I teach who was born without his right hand.  Yet, he's really into industrial technology and my outdoor club.  I even taught him to shoot a traditional bow, which he does quite well.  He wanted to learn how to use a plasma cutter in shop class, so I gave him some steel and a pattern and he cut out some blanks for me.  I told him I would either pay him or make him a knife.  Stupid question to ask an 18 year-old kid!  So, after a phone call home and a permission slip, he's grinnin' ear to ear.  (His last name just happens to be "Steele.")  Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

 

[DANA HOLMAN]

Them are nice, i bet he was happy, keep them coming
dana

[sticshooter]

niffty looking blades ya got there.<><

[skullworks]

Great work!

[oldpaths]

Fine look'n knives bro.!!!

So what did they tell you about the steel?

[DEATHMASTER]

I like the little black one there.
Both are nice.

[bendbig]

Very nice. I really like the smaller one.

[Lee Slikkers]

Hey 4est trekker, I think those look excellent!  I personally love that "working mans" look...

Any chance you could provide more details on the process or maybe a "build-a-long" on a knife like these?

Many thanks!

Lee

[Emmons]

Well Done!!

[Steve Nuckels]

Curt, you Know I love them!!!!

Nate's got to be lovin it too!

I'm getting close to finishing a mini "Sharpe Finger" blade!

Steve
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Potomac Forge

[4est trekker]

Thanks, all.  Regarding the steel content...the manufacturer gave me the following data.  Not a top-notch steel, but then again I'm not making big blades that get subjected to a lot of abuse.  Let me know what you all think:

Carbon: 0.69%
Manganese: 0.64%
Silicon: 0.18%
Chromium: 0.17%

[tradsniper]

those are some nice little knives

[4est trekker]

I've been researching the steel I used for this knife and a couple I just recently finished.  As I said, I contacted the manufacturer (Oldham Saw Company, which is now owned by Black and Decker).  They gave me the above specs for the blade, which was NOT carbide tipped.  I also found an online resource that tested several scrap steels for their alloy content, including this blade.  Here is a quote from that site:

"A very clean straight high carbon steel. If they do call it "1069" (which is an SAE-only listing) it's an extra clean and sound 1069. It's not a ".70%C W1" tho, too much Mn (.10% to .40%Mn for W1)."

Does this analysis sound correct?  At any rate, I assumed it was and treated it as a 10-series steel.  Here's what I did on the last three 4" blades I made, all with the same results (remember that the blade is small and is 3/32" thick):

1) After cutting it out and grinding it to shape, I did a three stage thermal cycling as Karl describes, only not as hot on the first stage (he calls for temps as hot as the original forging temps, which I obviously don't know).  To be safe, on the first stage I allowed the steel to reach non-magnetic, checking it every 30 seconds or so for color (I was working outside at night in the dark) and for magnetism with a magnet.  When it reached non-magnetic, I let it soak for 1 more minute. I let it cool to black, then heated it again until it hit non-magnetic (checking as before).  I quickly removed it, let it cool to black, and then heated it back up to just below non-magnetic.  This time I let it cool completely.

2) I heated it to non-magnetic (checking it as before), and then quenched it in 1 gallon of peanut oil heated to 140 degrees F (verified with a digital thermometer). I plunged the blade in point first up to the first tang hole.  After about a minute I plunged the tang in and allowed it to sit submerged for about 3 minutes.  I then pulled it out and cooled it in water.

3) To temper it, I gave it two 1-hour cycles in the oven set at 400 degrees F (verified by a second over thermometer).  I preheated the oven for 20 minutes before putting the blade in.

4) I ground a convex primary and flat secondary edge.  The edge neither rolled nor chipped on a brass rod and still shaved hair after about five minutes of whittling and hacking on a piece of osage.


Any thoughts?  Thanks for the help, fellas!