Originally posted by Toecutter:
Beautiful again!! Is it poor form to ask your heat treating recipe for the steel? Also temper? If its none of my damn business, I understand.
Nathan
Heck no, it's not poor form!! If any maker doesn't tell you his heat treating process for a given knife/steel, don't buy a knife from him.
He's either hiding something or doesn't know what he's doing. Or both.
Of course, my process might be too detailed for my typing proficiency and available time - I have a pizza in the oven!
The laminated blade is treated primarily like I would do for a simple 1095 blade, however, there are post-forging reducing heat steps, quenches and spherodizing procedures that are a little difficult to explain.
For example, after I forge the blade with reducing heats, I do 7 specific post-forging steps prior to a sub-critical spherodizing anneal, that include grain refinement and 2 quick quenches, that done incorrectly, result in blade cracks. This is because of the irregular cooling of the 203E and the 1095. Not done right and the 1095 rips right down the middle from end to end!
So, it's just hard to describe.
But once it's ground and ready to harden, the blade is thermal cycled 2-3 times to dissolve all the alloy and carbides just prior to a semi-controlled austenization at about 1475 and quenching in 80 degree Parks #50 oil.
Too long of an austenizing cycle with this 1095 brings too much carbon into solution and sort of results in too much brittleness, so the cycle is really important and I never harden with anyone else around so I can really feel the force!
I also have the tempering oven ready and up to full heat - where I have put it for a full hour for equalizing.
I don't normally care on most steels, as it's really not important if things are done correctly, and little danger exists, but with this combo, the tempering oven needs to be ready to receive the freshly quenched blade.
Then, 2 tempering cycles at about 425 for an hour and a half.
Whew.
Topic: Laminated Hunter (Read 571 times)
