Wanna see an ugly handle? (Sheath pics added)

[joekeith]

Yeah right, Lin make a ugly sumpin'    

[L. Bullington]

That's a cool knife, you make 'em all look pretty Lin.

Lucas

[ron w]

You make even an ugly knife handle look darn good.......That looks like a real working knife, excellent!      

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks.
   
I thought you might want to see the sheath. This is not quite finished. The pin lock bail is going on today and I should have finished pics then.

 

[Lin Rhea]

The sheath is finished. It's different.  

 

 

[David Yukon]

Lin, the pin thing, it lock the knife in the sheet by passing bellow the ricasso?!?!

[akaboomer]

Very nice!!! That shealth should wear like iron.  

Chris

[Lin Rhea]

Thank you guys. This (rawhide) is an idea I have and I hope it works out. If not, I'll know better but I think it will.

David, here is a pic of one. Yes the copper pin prevents the knife from ratcheting out from repetitive motion as on horse back or something.
     
 

[Bladepeek]

And that's a knife I'd REALLY hate to lose (if it were only mine   :(   )

[David Yukon]

Thank you Lin, It is a great idea! did you think of it?
Cheers

[Lin Rhea]

No David. It was the sheath man. I did talk him into curving the bail and sheath top to fit the guard when there is a curved guard.

[Roughcountry]

Nice sheath Lin, really like  that pin lock.
Really interested in how you like the rawhide over time. I've used lots of it on saddle bindings.
One thing thats really suprising is rawhide will wear out on a horn cap pretty fast from a rope.
It does ok on a cantle binding but sun will work on it a little.
It's not easy to put on and thats a good job on that sheath.

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks Robin. In your opinion, what product would darken and seal rawhide? Somehow I compare it with wood and keep thinking Danish or Linseed. What do you think?

[Roughcountry]

Lin, The only way I know to get a deep color change on rawhide is to dye it wet before putting it on. I've used rit dye in fairly hot water to get good color changes on braiding string hides. It will get deep enough to stay.

Sealing it is pretty tough, rawhide never quits pulling and shrinking. Most coating type finishes crack. On braiding I've always just used a rubbed in coat of Feibings white saddle soap. I'm trying some stuff made for rawhide, so far I can't tell the difference from the saddle soap.

I've made some camera and bino cases out of rawhide (light and very tough) I've just used amber shellac on them. It gives them a nice amber tinge and when it lightens up from wear I just give it another coat. It's also what I coat my rawhide saddle tree's with.
Hope this helps. Robin

[snakewood3]

I have found this product to be excellent on rawhide.
 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1268&familyName=Smiths+Warm+CPES+Epoxy

[Lin Rhea]

Thank you Charles and Robin. Two good options for me to think about.

[Lin Rhea]

   
 

[Lamey]

Lin,  good stuff as always,  sent you a PM on the rawhide.

[Bladepeek]

Wow! He's swing that blade so fast it bent the tip up   :D

[Lin Rhea]

Thank you Matt. Greg (my son) and I walked out into the cut over and did some cutting. He was trying out his folding buck saw and his knife. I took my new (no name yet) knife. We chopped and sliced and snipped stuff and let Daisy sniff around for mice.

Lately I've been really trying to find the limits of some of the steels I work with. Not only edge geometry, but heat treating. Greg's knife is W1 steel and mine is 1095. These are some of the blades that I was testing. Greg is excited about his knife and has put together quite a pack of equipment for camping/emergency. He's not been easy on it and it's been doing great.