Western Bowie in Damascus (Pro Photo)

[Lin Rhea]

A while back I made a large bowie in damascus and blackwood that turned out pretty well so I thought I'd try the pattern again. I'm really liking the look and the weight distribution I can get with the proportions.

Here is a 10 inch version that I hand finished today. It's been a long weekend. Yesterday I finished another blade that will be posted in a day or two. Spread things out a little.

This a close up of the pattern.

   

[Steve Nuckels]

A teaser photo!  

It looks great!

Steve
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Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation

[D.Ellis]

twisted W's Lin? It's beautifull.
Darcy  

[ron w]

OK, I'm interested in seeing this one. Looks like a beauty already!!

[akaboomer]

I love the way that twist patten looks!!! I see explosions of fire at the edge!!! Loving where this is going. Can't wait to see the finished product..

Chris

[Lamey]

love the pattern, really nice!

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks

 
 

[2treks]

Looks great Lin. You guys are really making me want to get a bowie!
Is that evidance of the fine edge on your table?
CTT

[daniel boon]

This would have to be one of the nicest Damascus paterns I've seen  

[kbaknife]

Lin, do you recall the layer count?

[srtben]

Love the Hamon peaking out there.

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks guys. This blade will be for the knife that I will compete in a cutting competition in February. It will be a fully dressed knife and in a traditional flare.

The pattern is  started by setting the billet up for a "W" pattern and then twisted. The flames and unique look this twist has is from the way I forged it. A lot of people will twist and then grind some flats on the bar. I forge it back to shape entirely. This will require performing the twist at a slightly larger squared size to allow for the reduction, driving the material inward till the "points" disappear into itself. I also will taper the squared bar allowing for the natural tapering of the particuluar blade. This makes the twisting very trickey but it can be done.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Another beauty in the works, Lin.

I have a question about damascus.  I assume it depends on which metals you're using, but how does one get the heat treat right so that when the damascus goes all the way to the edge, you don't have brittle or soft spots?  Is it simply a matter of choosing the right combination of metals so that the hardening and drawback temps are similar?  I've seen a few makers that use a solid core with damascus on the "outside", but when I noticed in your close-ups above that the blend goes all the way out, the question popped in my head.

Thanks in advance,
Rusty

[Lin Rhea]

In this picture, there are three different geometries in the bar. Back where its darker is the main billet and its more or less square and parallel. Just in front of that is a slight taper (also square), which is where the twisting will start and that taper will make up the body of the blade including the ricasso. Next you will see a more rapid taper that also will be twisted. This is the clip/point area. This tapering of the bar is an attempt to distribute material to it's optimum location, before it's twisted, to minimize the pattern distortion during the blade's final forging.

I usually reduce and forge the majority of the blade's shape while on the main stalk or billet and then cut it off after I have something that my tongs will fit. This should leave enough material in the parent billet for another blade or two of the same damascus pattern or even a laddered W pattern.
     

[Doug Campbell]

... tapering the twisted billet.... ahaa

I'll say it again, there's a reason you got that "MS" on the back side of your knives...

Any chance of you posting a pic of the blade lower portion from the tang end. Like to see the convex-ity?

Thanks

[Lin Rhea]

I'm not having much success at take the pic. Here is one that comes close. I'm using a smart phone but its not that smart.

 

[David Yukon]

Lin, you take better picture with your phone that I do with my camera...
As usual, Nice work!!

[Doug Campbell]

So is that actually hollow ground or just a full flat grind Lin? Is that the profile you would normally put on one of your competition knives? Guess I was expecting a much more convex profile. I know you've got a ton of experience in these cutting competitions. Having never done it I'm real curious... Thanks for posting that picture.

[Lin Rhea]

Doug, its flat ground with just the edge convexed. The angle of the picture is very deceptive. I was afraid that this picture might not give you an accurate idea of the geometry. What you are looking at is the way the plunges flow down from ricasso to the flats. Look past the choil and about where you see a piece of lint on the edge, you can start to decerne a roll in the edge. I'm going to stroke the edge on a stone a few times before the competition which will clarify the edge angle a little also serving to strengthen it.

[kbaknife]

It sort of looks hollow ground because the transition from the choil to the cutting edge (the 'dropped' portion of the blade) gradually moves/curves away from the choil.
Easy to see in Lin's second picture.
Cool looking pattern.