Ladder pattern development

[Lin Rhea]

I just forged two large blades in ladder pattern and took a few pictures of the process.

Matt, I was truly intending to make the twist that we spoke of but I really wanted to try to tweak my ladder pattern and before I knew it, it was a ladder pattern.

These pictures are from the steps of two different blades, but they are the same pattern and the same steps. They both turned out with a good pattern. So my tweaking was worthwhile.

Here is the original stack of 1/4 inch 1084 and 1/8 inch 15N20 steels.
     

[Lin Rhea]

The stack is 1 1/2 X 5 X 3 3/4 give or take. 17 layers.

I weld it and draw it to 1 1/2 inch square and about 12 inches long, maybe 13. In the above picture looking at the end of the billet the layers are oriented east and west during the weld and draw. Now it is square and 13 inches. Now I turn it onto a 45 degree angle and start putting a flat on each corner. I keep this up until it is an octagon and just keep going till it is now a square again but the layers are slanted on a 45 within the bar.

   

Now I crush it top to bottom in that orientation.

[Lin Rhea]

After it's crushed and forged into a rectangle I draw it on out and cut it into 5 pieces and re stack.
   

I weld it and draw it out.
   

[Lin Rhea]

I then cut this one into three pieces and re stack.
   
 I draw that out and cut it into 3 again and weld it. Now it's time to forge the first stage of the blade.

[akaboomer]

I always enjoy seeinv your process.
I appreciate you taking the time to share it.

Chris

[Doug Campbell]

 more please...

[FerretWYO]

WOW

[D.Ellis]

Cool! Looking forward to more of this one.
Darcy  

[Lin Rhea]

OK. This is for Matt. The last picture. If I were to square it and twist it loosely, then forge a blade and grind it, it would look something like this:
   
 

Back to the ladder.

This is hard to explain although it may only seem difficult to me. I have the billet welded up to the point shown above in the layered billet, not the twist. When it is layered up the way I want it, I forge it into a rough, thick blade. The layers run from spine to edge and can number what ever you want depending on the stacks. Mine is 45.
   

This blade is 7/8 thick at the ricasso spine and tapers, and I do mean taper, to 3/8 at the tip. The cutting edge has been drawn down to a consistent 1/4 inch. I want to end up with an 11 1/2 inch blade so this rough shaped blade is about 10 1/2, since I expect it to grow with subsequent forging.

The more care taken in the taper and subsequent cutting of the grooves, the better the pattern and final blade will be.

Now I groove it 1/3 the thickness. The depth changes as the blade tapers. The groves are staggered.
   

[gudspelr]

I love it when you put up these kinds of threads.

   


Jeremy

[Lin Rhea]

 

[gudspelr]

Wow... Bet that does a lot of shimmering in the light.  


Jeremy

[jpsowers]

That is an incredible looking blade.

[Bill Kissner]

I will say it again Lin, your skills are just unbelievable!!

[Lamey]

cant wait to see that big boy all done up!!

[Lin Rhea]

Thank you.        

I want to point out something about the rough blade's refinement into the final blade shape. I have worked on the ratio of thickness and how they work out.

If I want to end up with a 1/4 inch thick blade I have to make allowances for not only the forging but the grinding too. In my case, I wanted a 5/16 thick blade, give or take. It's a long blade after all. So I say 5/16 X 2 = 5/8 inch, then add the grinding (1/8 inch total for both sides) to get 7/8 inch thick for the rough embryo of the blade. Then cut the grooves 1/3 of 7/8 inch. No kidding.

If 1/4 inch is what I want to end up with as net thickness, I would say 1/4 X 2 = 1/2 + 1/8 = 5/8 thick for the rough embryo. Then cut the grooves 1/3 of 1/2 inch.

You might notice that when you cut into the rough embryo 1/3, that leaves 2/3. 2/3 of 1/2 inch is somewhat thicker than your desired net thickness of 1/4 inch. After flattening the embryo into the final blade thickness, that extra is for your grinding.  

I'll point out this. If even one groove is too deep, it will end up causing you to have a blade thinner than you intended because you have to forge it on down to get rid of the grooves. Some remnants of the cut grooves may still be left but you want to forge out at least 90% of the grooves. The grinding depth of the grooves is just one of the many possible mess ups. Be very careful and it will work. If you want to add a little insurance to your recipe go a little light on the grooves, say 1/4 the thickness. It will still look good but the chatoyance may not be as good.

The name of the game is evenness. Even pattern, even forging, even grinding, even heating, etc.

[Doug Campbell]

Thanks Lin and yep leave enough "meat" at the start. Nine times out of ten if I screw up a ladder it's starting with too thin a stock or grinding a groove or two too deep. Either one equals a thin finished blade and a bowie turns into a hunter... if your lucky...  

Awesome blade by the way, can't wait to see what embellishments this one gets.        

[gudspelr]

Thanks so much for the formula, Lin. I've always wondered how makers figured that out. It's sharing that kind of information that greatly reduces the learning curve for a bunch of us-thank you.

Jeremy

[Thadbow]

That is just awesome! Thanks for sharing Lin!

[tomsm44]

That's awesome.  Thanks for always being willing to share with us.

Matt