Naturally I was to provide the basic framework of this knife. The blade, as Gary mentioned, is a small Damascus drop point and the tang will form the spine of the handle. This will give all of the parts some stiffness. That, along with the compression applied to the stack as it is being assembled and glued, will be ample.
But I would like to point out a couple more things that Mr Scagel used to his advantage in this design. Periodically through the stack he would insert metal spacers, presumably to add color and a pleasing look. I believe there is more to it than that. The small stacks of metal spacers interspersed throughout the stack, while indeed looking good, will serve to divide the handle into sections, thus reducing the likelihood of over torqueing of any given spot along the handle. If these metal spacers are fit to the tang snugly, they support the otherwise spongy materials he used, which was leather in his case.
In the case of this knife, The tang was long enough to extend back into the antler for a bit where a machine screw was soldered to the tang to pass out the pommel end. Of course the antler is a durable material on it's own. To make sure of the good connection between the antler and the forward sections of the handle material, I drilled two alignment holes and placed pins, one on each side of the tang, from into the antler, forward through a set of metal spacers and into the wood.
I also made the finger guard from stainless steel and some of the spacer materials from stainless steel. This would "frame" the softer brass and provide color contrast.
At this point it was time to start stacking material into place, including the antler. For that I cut some of the forward part of the antler off and preserved the crown and about 1-1/2 inches of the main beam. This removed most of the curve from the antler and left me with the desired aspects for the handle. I waited till late in the process to cut the antler in case there was any plan changes, but as it turns out the longer antler was much easier to hold in the drill vise while boring the penny pocket.
Also at this point, I needed to drill the penny for the machine screw to come through it and I had to make a finial to hold it all together.
My methods might seem draconian by some standards but I get the job done most of the time. I drilled an appropriate hole and tapped it to match the machine screw. Then I drilled the perpendicular hole for the ring after which I cut the small section from the bar and screwed in a section of machine screw. I then put it into a battery drill and turned it from square to round and then stepped the part going through the penny.
By spinning the drill while working the piece you can usually come up with something usable.
Here I am holding the safe edge (no teeth) of the file down and truing up the seat of the finial.