Knife Sheath WIP

[Kevinnator11]

So my friend has a knife with a kydex sheath that he doesn't like.  He asked me to make him a simple sheath for his EDC.  

I thought I'd give a little back to the forum and hopefully some of this can help someone.  I will be posting pics as I go.  Looking forward to comments and questions and hopefully it turns out well.

 
This is the knife.  It doesn't fit securely in this sheath.  I will be doing a simple wrap style sheath.

 

I like to work from the inside out.  It makes it much easier than drawing out a template and working in.

 
 
 

Here I am making the welt.  I'll use that to get the outside template.  Now I like a 3/8" welt.
 
 

I just transfer the 3/8" to the leather and cut that out.  Tip-Don't try to cut it all the way through at once.  Make a few passes.  Also, don't try to go around a tight curve.  Just take straight lines and keep chipping away outside the line til you have the curve.  We will sand all this later to make it smooth.

[Kevinnator11]

Here I'm just making straight cuts to get the curve.

 

If you look close you notice that the curve isn't smooth.  No worries, that'll get fixed later.

 

Now to trace the welt to get a template.

 

The welt can flex so make sure to keep checking it with the knife to keep that from happening.

 

Flip it.

 

Here I mark where the lines connect on the welt.  We will be cutting that off soon.

 
 

The top I just eyeballed.  As you can see the right and left isn't the same.  Gotta fix that first.

[Kevinnator11]

Getting the images in the correct order is a pain.  Anyway I'll skip the steps where I corrected the top.  I just traced the right on paper and transferred it to the left to make them the same.  I also grooved in the center where the fold will be.
 
and here is our template.
 
Now groove the edges.  This will give us the stitch line.  About 3/16" to split the welt width.
 
Now case the leather.  Take a sponge and dampen the leather.  Makes it easier to groove.
 
As you see I don't go all the way around.  I also free hand up around where the front and back will connect.  Easier than making that turn.
 
Now I will put a reference for the back side of the sheath.  The reason I do this is because when you punch the holes you can groove over the holes.  If you groove now it never fails to be off.  At least for me.  
 
I'm just getting the width from edge to stitch groove and transferring to the areas I haven't grooved yet.
 
 

[Kevinnator11]

Now the fun part.  Simple basket weave.  All of these tools are available online through Tandy.  Roughly $10 per.
 
Here I've marked a light line along the part that will be back of the sheath.
 
I'll start at the top.
 
 
 
Just alternate from one side to the other down the line.
 
 
When you get to the edge be careful not to go over the stitch line.  Just lean the tool over and tap when you get close.
Now just overlap.  It'll go fast now.  Don't get in to much of a hurry.
 

[Kevinnator11]

See it.  I did this on purpose actually to show you what to do.  Basically act like it didn't happen and keep the rest straight.  LOL
 
See it now?
 

[Kevinnator11]

Now to make a piece to stitch for the belt loop.
 
An inch should work fine.
 
Here I've used a slicker to work the edge.  Just wet, rub and look for a little bit of a shine.
 
 
 
 
Here are the three pieces we will need.  Now I just need to get some contact adhesive and I'll post more.  

Hope some of this can be helpful to someone.

[Bodork]

Great tutorial! I do my own sheaths and taught myself. I like seeing it done from someone who actually knows what they are doing! Already learned something. Never seen a slicker before. Thanks for taking the time to post this.

[tomsm44]

Nice tutorial.  I learned in an earlier thread on here that Canadians use a beer bottle for a slicker.  Definitely gives the sheath a more professional look

Matt

[Sam Harper]

Interesting!

[Kevinnator11]

Well I've taught myself also.  I still make lots of mistakes I'm just better at covering them up.  The biggest thing is the order of events.  If you stitch something up and forget the belt loop or a snap somewhere it's almost impossible to go back and do that.  I've had to start over a few times.  

[Kevinnator11]

So I didn't get as much accomplished last night.  Kind of got sidetracked by a few beers.

Here are the three parts.  I cut the welt where the fold will be first and then contact cement it to what will be the back.  This is just your basic contact cement and you can get it pretty much anywhere.  I like to apply it to the welt only, make sure there isn't a lot to squeeze out and then just use clamps.  Try to keep your clamps on the smooth side where the stitching will be going so you don't have bad clamp marks.  I use the smaller ones here.  On the face I'll probably sandwich it between two wood pieces and put a weight on top to eliminate getting those marks in the leather.
 
 
 
 

Also when you glue the welt try to place it where there is a slight overhang.  That way after we fold and stitch we can just hit that edge with a belt sander for a perfect edge.

[Kevinnator11]

So last night I got the following done.  

Started off shaping the welt so that it'll grip the knife better.  Used the belt sander but you could use a dremel or sandpaper.   TIP- the welt is to keep the blade of the knife from cutting through the stitching.  If you make it thin it can still do that and grip the knife better.

 

This is the blade side and the only side I'm planning to thin.

 

Not the best pic but it is about half the thickness it was here.

 

Now for color.

 
 

I use a airbrush and this is USMC black.  Feibings alcohol based dye.  You can apply this with a piece of cloth or a dauber or something.  I only paint the inside where you could see it when the knife isn't in there.

Next I'll be stitching the belt loop.

 

Notice that this punch would have a hole right on each edge.  No bueno.  Instead just shift it.  I do want a hole on each side of the loop.

 

You could just guesstimate on this.  I like the punch tool because it establishes the stitch spacing automatically.  I started off using a fork to make reference marks.  Notice one prong is on the edge?  When I stitch and include this it will also allow me to hold that edge down really tight.  I like to double up stitching through these areas.

Now just glue, clamp and wait for tomorrow to finish.  Beer time!!

 

I hope this helps someone.  To many pics maybe?

[oldgoat]

Thanks I really enjoy these tutitorials Mo please

[Shinken]

K-11 !!!

This has been a great build-a-long and I have learned a couple of new things that I will be able to use on future sheaths!

               

Keep the wind in your face!

Shoot straight, Shinken

   

[gudspelr]

Thanks for showing how you do things. It's always great to follow along on stuff like this.


Jeremy

[NittanyRider]

Thanks for the taking the time to post this!  I think your pictures do a really good job showing the process.  Your instructions are good too… not too wordy, just focus on what's important.    

What weight leather do you use for sheaths?

[amicus]

Very Nice.

[Kevinnator11]

Thanks guys.  It is a pain to post the pics.  I use vegetable tanned 8-10 oz leather.  Sometimes I use 4-6 oz for the welt and just stack to what I need.  That's quicker but I think the thicker would last much longer.

[Kevinnator11]

Notice I keep the offset.  So I have a stitch on the outside also.  And here is where you want to make sure you stitch top and bottom of the loop prior to folding.  Also, make sure you are on the side you want to be.  That determines if it is left or right handed.
 
I won't go into how to stitch.  YouTube has lots of vids on that.  However, I do recommend at the top you loop around the outside also there a couple of times.  Welt stitch or edge stitch is what I'm referring to.
 
A 5/64 bit is perfect here and you probably have that already.  Just don't drill through into wood.  You would be pulling wood fibers into your leather and damaging the stitch.  I use a wood piece with a 1/4 hole underneath.  Or I have free handed it with a dremmel but that kind of sucks.
 
Just using this to get the correct spacing.  I've learned that contact cement isn't strong enough to punch this through.  It'll pull it apart.  Easier this way then the drill press on the marks you've left.
 
Here I use a sponge to dampen the sheath on the inside of the fold.
 
 
Glue, fold and clamp once you've finished stitching.  Don't worry about the edge yet.  We will fix that.

[Kevinnator11]

Here you can see I've finished the stitching.  Prior to stitching the edge I did free hand groove the back side where that reference mark was.  I'll go back soon and hit that again with the dye.
 
 
I've cleaned that up with the belt sander.  Now just to polish the edge.