I have found not only myself, but a number of close friends enjoying making fillet knives. And there have been a number of makers making more and more thin kitchen knives.
One aspect of both of these is flex.
And not just flex, but flex in hardened blades.
Oddly enough, I have found it a common misunderstanding that hardened blades don't flex and must be softened at the spine so as to "flex" more easily.
I digress to about 12 years ago around 2003 when I used to attend the Ashokan Seminar in New York state. The organizers of this event were master Smiths Tim Zowada and Kevin Cashen. They always did a demo where they took two knives of exact dimensions and subjected them to flexing/bending tests. The results were always the same. How a piece of steel flexes/bends is a matter of geometry - not hardness, or lack of.
They made a bending "thing" that clamped their blades of identical geometries and steel type, and then connected heavy weights and measured the amount of flex in both inches and weight.
Without fail - both blades bent exactly the same.
Up to a point.
What will happen, eventually, is that the unhardened blade will eventually take a "set" in that the steel structure will yield to the bend and the hardened blade - with an entirely different structure - will return to precisely straight.
Some folks confuse the torching of blade spines to flex. This is not the case.
When we over-temper a blade spine, we're simply making it so it won't crack, but it will take a set - big time.
This is done mostly in heavier dimensions like Bowie knives, etc.
For the most part, I would always prefer fully tempered martensite over unhardened pearlite. It's much tougher.
But in thinner blades, properly tempered, fully hardened is the way to go.
Think of your commercial fillet knives, like a Rapala.
Flex one if you have one.
It goes right back to straight.
It does that because it's hardened. If it had a softened spine, it would take a set.
So, if you have fillet knives or kitchen knives on your horizon, make sure you do fully hardened blades with good grain control, and temper them accordingly.
As an example, a friend of mine of Facebook just did an example of a fully hardened 52100 blade.
I hope this link works.
Keep in mind that if the spine was soft - that thing would look like a horseshoe right now.